perm filename EVERES.NS[ESS,JMC]4 blob
sn#244539 filedate 1976-11-02 generic text, type T, neo UTF8
n047 1353 26 Jul 76
BC-BECK COLUMN 2tales 1000
(Editor's Note: The following Special Features material
is for use by subscribers to Marilyn Beck's column, or by
special arrangement.)
MARILYN BECK'S HOLYWOOD
FOR RELEASE: JULY 27
Show Business in the News
TELEVISION DOESN'T LOOK
SO BAD TO DAVID CARRADINE
SPECIAL EVEREST EXPEDITION
COVERAGE PLANNED BY CBS
By MARILYN BECK
HOLLYWOOD - David Carradine is changing his mind about TV.
Last year, when his 'Kung Fu'' series was dropped after
a three-year run, he looked back on that period as a time
of almost constant anger and vowed, ''I'd never do a weekly
television show again. It's too confining, too frustrating
to be a victim of decisions made largely by people who don't
know why they're making them in the first place.''
Now, examining the industry from a less emotional vatage
point, the rebel star has decided, ''TV can change, just
like I can change. 'Kung Fu' changed TV a lot, it made certain
demands on the medium. Because of the production quality
of the show, and the truth of Kung Fu, television changed
for the better.''
Sounding like a page out of an old ''Kung Fu'' script, he
adds, ''TV remains a panacea, and my series seemed to breach
that a little. But, like the Red Sea parts, it must come
back together again.''
Though some of his statements might seem obscure, one thing
perfectly clear is that David doesn't need the small-screen
scene for professional survival nowadays.
The fellow who shared his life with actress Barbara Hershey
Seagull for seven years, and who's currently sharing a Malibu
pad with Linda McGuinn (estranged wife of former Byrds singer
Roger McGuinn), starts Roger Corman's ''Death Rally'' film
in the fall.
Then in December he leaves for France to star in the film
''King of the World.'' He's also scheduled to costar with
Charlton Heston in Universal's ''Grey Lady Down'' - unless
the Navy disapproves.
''I'm supposed to play a rebel sailor who goes against the
military's way of doing things,'' he says. ''But the studio
wants the Navy Department's cooperation, and has sent them
a script for approval. And the outcome of that will decide
whether my part remains. The Navy could turn the script into
pablum.''
Even if that project turns to mush for Carradine, he seems
bound for glory - particularly once ''Bound For Glory'' is
released at year's end. Not everyone in this industry may
approve of his mode of living or his ideas,but - among those
who've gotten advance peeks at the United Artists film -
there seems unanimous agreement that his portrayal of folk
singer Woody Guthrie is so brilliant it will heist him to
the status of Super Star.
(MORE)
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n048 1402 26 Jul 76
BC-BECK COLUMN 1stadd
HOLLYWOOD: star.
A New Love
BEHIND THE SCENES: Jack Jones hasn't attached himself to
any one gal since he and attachee Susan George dissolved
their lengthy liaison - but he does have two new loves in
his life: catamaran sailing and CB radio. The singing star
rented a 16-foot Hobie Cat during his recent concert stand
at Orlando's Disney World, and became so enamoured of the
sport, he's now ordered a Cat to use in the Pacific waters.
That's where he'll be spending most of his time - when he
isn't cruising around in his car with its personalized ''OCTAVE''
license plate. Which happens to spell out his CB call letters.
THE REEL WORLD: Swiss beauty Marthe Keller decided she looked
too healthy for her role as a chronically ill jetsetter in
''Bobby Deerfield'' - and has gone to great pains to do something
about the matter. She started arising at six in the morning,
playinor an hour, hiking mountain trails at top
speed, submitting to underwater massages, swimming in thermal
baths, limiting her intake to lettuce leaves and carrot juice.
And within a week had melted off 10 pounds - and succeeded
in looking as wan and weak as other inmates of the sanitarium
in which she appears in the Al Pacino starrer. Says Marthe,
when audiences see the film and hear her ordered by doctors
to rest, she hopes they'll be thinking, ''God, yes - and
give her something to eat!''
THE REAL WORLD: CBS' coverage of the American Bicentennial
Everest expedition should be something special to see - because
the team's assault on the world's tallest mountain is being
planned as something special, indeed. The mountain-climbing
group includes several doctors, and part of their mission
will be compiling data on the psychological effects such
an ordeal has on those who attempt it.
Ed Goren, coproducer of the coverage which CBS will bring
to viewers in three 10-minutes preliminary reports (the first
to air August 14), plus an hour-long special, points out
that as the 11-member team sets off for Nepal on Saturday
(7-24), they were a happy, close-knit group. Yet, when the
climb mountain actually gets under way,
adverse conditions can bring personality clashes and a breakdown
of the happy team concept.
Effects of such stress is one of the things Dr. Dee Crouch
intends to study during the three-month adventure - and he
will supply his findings to NASA. He tells me that other
explorers of Everest - with its extraordinary winds, subzero
temperatures, and lack of oxygen - have experienced the same
psychological problems that many of our astronauts have suffered.
Thus far, no one's sure exactly why.
''They come home, and there's great depression, and a high
incidence of diorce,'' says Crouch. ''We do know that extended
exposure to extremely high altitudes does affect the brain
- and we're hoping to come back with findings about the whys
and wherefores of such effects.
THE STREET SCENE: Producer Robert Radnitz, best known for
such family films as ''Sounder,'' starts filming next month
of ''A Hero Ain't Nothing But a Sandwich,'' in the Watts
section of L.A. The production, which will relate a graphic
picture of ghetto life, will include such graphic language
that Radnitz is expecting the film to get slapped with an
''R.''
c.1976 Marilyn Beck
Special Features
(To purchase the above material call John Osenenko or Peter
Willett in New York (212) 556-1721 or 556-1114. In Europe
or Middle East contact Paul Gendelman in Paris, 073-9513
(Telex 230650). In the Far East contact Ray Falk in Tokyo
at Telex 2226717.)
0726 1701ped
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a009 2214 28 Jul 76
PM-Sikes, Bjt, 470
By JIM ADAMS
Associated Press Writer
WASHINGTON (AP) - The House of Representatives, which hasn't
punished one of its members since the days of the late Adam Clayton
Powell, is preparing to vote on a proposal to reprimand Rep. Robert
L.F. Sikes of Florida.
The House ethics committee recommended earlier this week that the
full House take action against Sikes today, urging that he be
reprimanded on two counts of financial misconduct.
The last time a member was punished was in 1969 when the flamboyant
Powell, a Harlem Democrat, was stripped of his seniority and fined
for misuse of funds.
In a 498-page report, the ethics committee called for Sikes, D-Fla.,
chairman of the House military construction appropriations
subcommittee, to be reprimanded for:
-Buying 2,500 shares of stock in the First Navy Bank after he used
his office to help establish the bank at the Pensacola, Fla., Naval
Air Station.
-Failing to report in financial statements to the House both the
bank stock and 1,000
shares of stock Sikes owned in Fairchild
Industries, Inc., a major defense contractor.
A reprimand is the mildest form of punishment the ethics panel could
have recommended short of exoneration. At the other end of the scale,
it could have recommended that Sikes be expelled from the House.
The committee also said Sikes created ''an obvious and significant
conflict of interest'' by sponsoring a bill in 1961 to clear
commercial development of Florida land owned by a company he
controlled.
But the panel recommended no punishment for the land deal, saying it
happened 15 years ago and that Sikes' constituents continued to
re-elect him, even though they knew about the deal to some extent.
Sikes, replying to the charges, said he acted as a congressman to
benefit his contituents and not himself.
As for failing to report the stock, he said he didn't know he was
required to do so. He said he immediately filed reports on the stock
when he found out he was supposed to do so.
The committee cleared Sikes of an additional charge of violating
House rules by voting on a bill in 1974 that would have benefited his
Fairchild stock by appropriating $73 million for Navy planes built by
the firm.
In doing so, the panel agreed with Sikes' contention that House
rules prohibit members from voting on bills that financially benefit
them directly, but do not prohibit votes on bills that benefit a
congressman only as one of many shareholders.
The committee said Sikes los,173.19 on the Fairchild stock
because the price declined during the five years he held it.
The ethics committee recommended the reprimand after a three-mont
investigation of charges filed by 44 House members and by Common
Cause, a public affairs lobby organization.
0113aED 07-29
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a020 2343 28 Jul 76
PM-Sikes, Bjt - Insert, a009, 20
WASH: to provide further details of the committee report, insert
after 6th graf: defense contractor.
The committee said he made a $14,000 profit on the land company and
$8,200 profit on his bank stock.
A reprimand, 7th graf
0242aED 07-29
- - - - - -
a089 0752 29 Jul 76
PM-Sikes, 1st Ld, a009, 30
BULLETIN
WASHINGTON (AP) - The House voted overwhelmingly today to reprimand
a subcommittee chairman, Rep. Robert L. F. Sikes, on two counts of
financial misconduct.
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PM-Sikes, 1st Add, a089, 100
URGENT
WASHN: financial misconduct.
It was the House's first punishment of a member since 1969 when it
fined Harlem Democrat Adam Clayton Powell and stripped him of
seniority.
There were only three speakers in the debate before the reprimand
against Sikes, a Florida Democrat.
One of the speakers, Rep. Andrew McGuire, D-N.J., said the House
ethics committee should have recommended a stiffer punishment than
censure. He said members should consider whether to take away Sikes'
chairmanship of the House military construction appropriations
subcommittee next year.
More
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PM-Sikes, 1st Ld-2nd Add, a090, 100
URGENT
WASHINGTON: next year.
''The committee has found conduct that cannot and should not be
tolerated by this House, or anybody or the American people,'' McGuire
said.
The House approved the reprimand by a 381 to 3 vote, with five
members voting present. Voting against the reprimand were Reps. F.
Edward Hebert, D-La., Tom Steed, D-Okla., and Olin Teague, D-Tex.
Sikes made no statement to the House in his own defense but received
permission to insert a statement later into the Congressional Record.
In a 498-page report issued earlier this week, the ethics committee
called for Sikes to be reprimanded for:
-Buying 2,500: 5th graf.
---
By JIM ADAMS
Associated Press Writer
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PM-Sikes, 2nd Ld, a089, 360
URGENT
By JIM ADAMS
Associated Press Writer
WASHINGTON (AP) - The House voted overwhelmingly today to reprimand
a subcommittee chairman, Rep. Robert L. F. Sikes, on two counts of
financial misconduct.
It was the House's first punishment of a member since 1969 when it
fined Harlem Democrat Adam Clayton Powell and stripped him of
seniority.
Sikes, a Florida Democrat, sat before a microphone in the chamber
during the 20-minute debate but spoke only once, to request permission
to insert a statement later into the Congressional Record. His
request was granted.
One speaker, Rep. Andrew McGuire, D-N.J., said the House ethics
committee should have recommended a stiffer punishment of censure. He
said members should consider whether to take away Sikes' chairmanship
of the House military construction appropriations subcommittee next
year.
''The committee has found conduct that cannot and should not be
tolerated by this House, or anybody or the American people,'' McGuire
said.
House Speaker Carl Albert, asked by reporters later if he thought a
reprimand was sufficient punishment, said: ''That's a pretty severe
thing to have in your record as a member of Congress.''
The House approved the reprimand by a 381-to-3 vote, with five
members voting present. Voting against the reprimand were Reps. F.
Edward Hebert, D-La., Tom Steed, D-Okla., and Olin Teague, D-Tex.
Ethics committee Chairman John Flynt, D-Ga., and the panel's ranking
Republican, Rep. Floyd Spence of South Carolina, presented the
committee's recommendations to the House floor and were the only other
speakers during the debate.
After the proceedings, Flynt said he saw no real difference between
reprimand or censure and said committee members decided to use the
word reprimand.
Asked if Sikes had gotten off easy, Flynt replied: ''As I told
another House member who asked that, if it happened to you, you
wouldn't think it was easy.''
Flynt said the ethics committee did not consider whether Sikes
should be stripped of his subcommittee chairmanship because it is the
House Democratic Caucus that selects committee members and chairmen.
In a: 8th graf.
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a215 1111 29 Jul 76
PM-Sikes, 3rd Ld, a201, 190
URGENT
By JIM ADAMS
Associated Press Writer
WASHINGTON (AP) - The House voted overwhelmingly today to reprimand
a subcommittee chairman, Rep. Robert L. F. Sikes, on two counts of
financial misconduct.
It was the House's first punishment of a member since 1969 when it
fined Harlem Democrat Adam Clayton Powell and stripped him of
seniority.
Sikes, a Florida Democrat, sat before a microphone in the chamber
during the 20-minute debate but spoke only once, to request permission
to insert a statement later into the Congressional Record. His
request was granted.
Afterward, Sikes told reporters, ''Of course I am disappointed. It
was not unanticipated because of the atmosphere regarding public
officials at this time.''
He said he declined to address his colleagues on the House floor
because, ''I know a stacked deck when I see one.''
Sikes said he expects the reprimand will help his reelection
chances. Speaking of his constituents, Sikes said, ''They're mad and
not mad with me. The prediction is that I'll get the biggest vote of
my life.''
One speaker: 4th graf.
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a223 1204 29 Jul 76
AM-EVEREST, BJT, SUB, a215, 50
KATMANDU TO HOME TOWN, SUB for 4th graf: in 1953.
The U.S. bicentennial expedition came about by chance. Phillip
Trimble, a 38-year-old State Department lawyer from Springfield, Ohio,
and leader of the team, had been thinking of scaling a 24,000-foot
peak in the Himalayas when he learned last December from a friend in
Nepal that the French had canceled their 1976 option to climb Mt.
Everest.
At first, 5th graf.
1456pED 07-29
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a202 0931 29 Jul 76
AM-News Digest,
AP NEWS DIGEST
Friday AMs
Here are the top stories in sight for AMs at this hour. The General
Desk night supervisor is G.G. LaBelle. He can be reached at 212
262-6093 if you have an urgent question about the spot news report.
POLITICS
WASHINGTON - President Ford and Sen. Richard S. Schweiker try in
person to nail down votes among the 103 Pennsylvania Republican
convention delegates who were a principal target of Ronald Reagan when
he selected Schweiker as a running mate.
New, political roundup, developing. Tops expectable in late
afternoon after delegation meets with Schweiker and in early evening
after delegation visits Ford. Wirephoto covering.
HOUSE VOTES TO REPRIMAND
WASHINGTON - The House votes to punish one of its members for the
first time since 1969. It reprimands Rep. Robert L.F. Sikes, D-Fla.,
on two counts of financial misconduct. New material, may stand.
Wirephoto NY20.
With reaction from Florida.
EARTHQUAKE
TOKYO - Survivors of China's great quakes tell of vast destruction
in Tangshan, a city of one million people, and of fears that coal
miners were trapped underground. A tent city springs up in Peking. New
material. Wirephoto TOK8.
CRIME
CHOWCHILLA, Calif. - James Schoenfeld, subject of a nationwide
manhunt in the kidnaping of 26 school children and their bus driver,
is captured within 150 miles of the crime scene. His brother faces
arraignment in the crime; a third suspect remains at large.
Developing. Wirephotos NY21, FX2,3.
LOS ANGELES - Lawyers and defendant Bill Harris deliver closing
arguments in the trial of Harris and his wife Emily on kidnaping and
robbery charges involving Patty Hearst. Developing. Wirephoto
covering.
DETROIT - James R. Hoffa disappeared a year ago Friday and a federal
grand jury is still unable to unravel the circumstances of his
disappearance. Will stand. Wirephoto NY22.
INTERNATIONAL
ROME - Premier designate Giulio Andreotti announces he is forming a
new all-Christian Democrat government. But it will depend on
Comm7nist support, giving the Communists unprecedented control over
the running of this NATO-member country. New material.
KATMANDU, Nepal - An American expedition arrives in the mountain
kingdom of Nepal to attempt a second U.S. conquest of Everest, the
world's tallest peak.
ATHENS - The U.S. Navy transport Coronado arrives with 155 Americans
and about 145 other evacuees from war-torn Lebanon. New material.
Wirephoto ATH1,2,4,6.
With Beirut fighting separate.
NATIONAL
LOS ANGELES - An artificial pancreas has been developed that
counteracts diabetes in dogs, and doctors say a similar device for
humans may be only 2 1/2 years away. New, will stand.
WAYNESBURG, Pa. - As an annual event, Rain Day doesn't have quite
the reputation of Groundhog Day or the return of the swallows to
Capistrano. But it's the only festival local folks have and - even
with just a few drops - it'll have to do. New, will stand.
With Labor Roundup.
1231pED 07-29
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a217 1124 29 Jul 76
AM-Everest, Bjt - 2 Takes, 460-640
By JURATE KAZICKAS
Associated Press Writer
KATMANDU, Nepal (AP) - An American Bicentennial expedition has
arrived in this mountain kingdom to attempt the ond American
conquest of Mt. Everest, the world's highest peak. If successful, the
climbers could put the first American women and the first
husband-and-wife team on the peak.
The climbers are now in their final days of organizing and packing
14 tons of food, clothing and equipment before setting out on the
175-mile trek to the base camp at 29,028-foot Everest, known in Nepal
as Chomolungama, goddess mother of the earth.
The 11 climbers will be the first Americans to tackle the mountain
since the successful 1963 United States expedition. Five members of
that group reached the peak first scaled by Sir Edmund Hillary of New
Zealand and Sherpa guide Tenzing Norgay in 1953.
The U.S. Bicentennial expedition came about by chance. Phillip
Trimble, a 38-year-old State Department lawyer and leader of the team,
had been thinking of scaling a 24,000-foot peak in the Himalayas when
he lerned last December from a friend in Nepal that the French had
canceled their 1976 option to climb ,t. Everest.
At first, Trimble said, he just chuckled at the thought, but then,
discussing it with his climbing friends, the idea of taking over the
French option proved irresistible.
Normally two or three years are needed to organize an expedition for
Everest. This one was pulled together in less than seven months.
Another unusual aspect of the expedition is its relatively small
size. The 1963 team had 20 members.
Almost all members of the Bicentennial team are close friends.
Three, including Trimble, are Harvard Law School classmates.
The team includes two women. Arlene Blum, a 31-year-old biochemist
on the faculty of Stanford University, and Barbara Roach, 31, a
modern dance teacher from Boulder, Colo., hope to become the first
American women to climb Everest.
And if Gerald Roach, Barbara's husband, reaches the summit too, the
couple will be the first husband-and-wife team at the top.
The climbers will attempt the popular South Col route pioneered by
Hillary and Tenzing. But they will be battling their way up the
mountain during the difficult postmonsoon season with its shorter days
and bitter winds. The summit attempts are scheduled for the first
days of October when a ''window'' of generally clear weather is
expected.
A Japanese team in on season.
Altogether 54 climbers have reached the top of Mt. Everest,
identified in 1852 as the world's highest peak and named for the first
surveyor-general of India, Sir George Everest.
Among successful climbers were two women, Junko Tabei of Japan who
made it in May 1975 and a Tibetan woman member of a Chinese expedition
that reached the top a few days after the Japanese.
More
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AM-Everest, Correction, a217, 50
KATMANDU, to correct that these are first Americans on Everest since
1963, sub for 3rd graf: The 11 . . . in 1953.
The 11 climbers will be the first Americans to tackle the mountain
since the unsuccessful 1971 International Everest Expedition headed by
Austrian Norman Deryenfurth. However, five members of a 1963 United
States expedition reached the peak first scaled by Sir Edmund Hillary
of New Zealand and Sherpa guide Tenzing Norgay in 1953.k
The U.S. bicentennial, 4th graf
2327pED 07-29
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a218 1127 29 Jul 76
AM-Everest, Bjt, 1st add, 180
KATMANDU add: Japanese.
Trimble dreams of putting all 11 members of his team on the summit,
which would be yet another first in Everest's history.
But for the moment, recalling these last frantic months filled with
20-hour days of planning and work, he's just happy the group has made
it at least as far as Katmandu.
''No one can ever appreciate the tremendous problems in organizing
an Everest expedition,'' Trimble said.
The final permit for the climb was received only in March. Within
weeks, tons of food and equipment had to be assembled, along with 200
tanks of oxygen, vital to any Everest assault.
The supplies had to be sent by air freight to Nepal, adding enormous
expense to an already costly proposition.
Expenses are now well into six figures, and team members have had to
take out loans and invest their own money since wealthy benefactors
with a sense of adventure are in short supply. Mt. Everest has been
climbed already, hasn't it?
''People who say that have absolutely no understanding of
mountaineering, the motivation, the worth of such an experience'' said
Trimble. ''How can you say 'no' to Everest?''
1427pED 07-29
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a061 0441 03 Aug 76
PM-Everest, 420
By JURATE KAZICKAS
Associated Press Writer
KATMANDU, Nepal (AP) - The American Bicentennial Everest Expedition
set out today on its journey to the top of the world.
Eleven climbers with backpacks, umbrellas and box lunches piled into
Land Rovers, vans and buses. They were accompanied by half a dozen
wives and friends, four Sherpa guides, and U.S. Ambassador Marquita
Maytag in shorts, white knee-socks and an expedition tee-shirt.
Their first stop was Lamosangu, 52 miles away. There they were to
shift to the standard means of mountain transport - their feet - to
complete the 140 miles to their base camp on 29,028-foot Mt. Everest,
the highest mountain in the world.
''I am here because I love to hike and I wish the group well,'' said
the ambassador, who planned to trek with the group for a few miles.
''I do worry about them. I just hope they have thought of everything.
But I am very proud, too.''
''Let us get away from civilization. Let us go to the mountain,''
said Dan Emmett, 36, of Los Angeles, one of the chief organizers of
the expedition, who insisted on going on despite the pain of a recent
slipped 3sk.
The climbers and 150 porters will march through river valleys,
terraced hillside ridges and pine forests toward the massive peaks of
the Himalayas.
Camping under the trees, in pastures where yaks graze, in mountain
villages and on monastery grounds, the expedition hopes to reach the
base camp at 17,500 feet in about three weeks.
The last few days in Katmandu were spent in repacking, getting
trekking permits and customs clearance for equipment and shopping for
such forgotten items as maps of Mt. Everest, sheets for sleeping bags
and umbrellas to guard against the monsoon rains.
It is the first visit to Nepal for all but two of the American
members of the expedition so sightseeing tours were arranged.
At the temples of Pashupatinath, where marching bands filled the
square, the climbers watched Buddhist monks in saffron-colored robes
throw bits of grain and flowers into a fire in a ceremony ''to avert a
national disaster.''
Phillip Trimble, the expedition's 38-year-old leader from
Springfield, Ohio, ate a traditional farewell dinner with a group of
Sherpas, the mountain men essential to the success of any Everest
expedition.
Everest was first conquered in 1953 by a British expedition which
put Sir Edmund Hillary of New Zealand and the Sherpa guide Tenzing
Norgay on the summit. There was a successful American expedition in
1963.
0742aED 08-03
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a201 0921 06 Aug 76
AM-News Digest,
AP NEWS DIGEST
Saturday AMs
Here are the top stories in sight for AMs at this hour. The General
Desk night supervisor is G.G. LaBelle. He can be reached at 212
262-6093 if you have an urgent question about the spot news report
LEGIONNAIRE'S DISEASE
PHILADELPHIA - Scientists say test results point to a toxic
substance as the likely cause of 25 deaths from the mysterious
''legionnaire's disease.'' They rule out influenza and any type of
fungus. New material, developing. Wirephotos AX2, HF1.
TAXES AND JOBS
WASHINGTON - The Senate moves toward final action on a
multi-billion-dollar tax bill extending last year's tax cuts and
providing new benefits for individuals and businesses. New material,
developing. Mid-afternoon or evening vote expected.
WASHINGTON - Unemployment rose from 7.5 to 7.8 per cent in July,
leaving more people out of work than at any time in the last seven
months, the government reports. New material, may stand. Wirephoto
Chart NY18.
POLITICS
PHILADELPHIA - Republican challenger Ronald Reagan, with six new
Northeastern delegates in his hands, makes a bid for more in the home
state of his proposed running mate, Sen. Richard Schweiker of
Pennsyvania. New material, developing. Wirephoto covering.
WASHINGTON - President Ford and Ronald Reagan will try to avoid
''fights for the sake of fights'' on platform issues at the Republican
National Convention, Ford aides say. New material, may stand.
AFRICA
JOHANNESBURG, South Africa - Racial rioting engulfs the black
township of Soweto for a third straight day. Police open fire on
demonstrators and at least three blacks are reported injured. New
material. Wirephoto JOH1.
JOHANNESBURG, South Africa - An angry new generation of blacks
appears to have emerged in white-ruled South Africa to plunge the
nation into its worst racial crisis. An AP News Analysis, by Larry
Heinzerling.
INTERNATIONAL
BEIRUT, Lebanon - Palestinians desperate to leave a besieged refugee
camp mob a Red Cross convoy evacuating wounded, forcing abandonment
of the rescue mission and bringing the convoy under Christian fire.
Four persons are wounded, the Red Cross says. New material.
TOKYO - Bicycles jam Peking streets and some people begin cooking in
their homes as fears of new quake diminish. New.
PHEDI, Nepal - Leeches make life miserable for American climbers on
the first stage of a Bicentennial expedition to Mt. Everest. New, by
Jurate Kazickas.
CONSUMER SCORECARD
UNDATED - Controversy over generic vs. brand-name drugs flares
again. One legislator claiming use of generic drugs could save
consumers $2 billion a year. Consumer Scorecard, by Louise Cook, new
material, will stand.
LITTON FUNERAL
CHILLICOTHE, Mo. - Chillicothe mourns a hometown boy who went to
Congress and was on his way to the Senate when he died in a fiery
airplane crash. Funeral services are held for Rep. Jerry Litton, whose
death came on the night he won the Senate Democratic primary.
Developing. Wirephoto covering.
1223pED 08-06
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a242 1329 06 Aug 76
AM-ABEE, Bjt - 2 takes, 480-770
Editor's Note: A group of mountain climbers is on its way to the
base of Mt. Everest, hopeful of becoming the second American party to
reach its summit. AP Writer Jurate Kazickas is accompanying them on
their trek through the Himalayas. This dispatch was carried back to
Katmandu by a friend.
---
By JURATE KAZICKAS
Associated Press Writer
PHEDI, Nepal (AP) - On their way to the world's highest peak, the
members of the American Bicentennial Everest Expedition suffer in
silence the rain, the stifling heat and the slippery rock paths. But
the loathsome leeches have them talking.
As they settled down for their first two nights on the trail, the
climbers compared leech statistics and stories, sympathizing with
unofficial high-count winner Arlene Blum of Menlo Park, Calif., and
with Dan Emmett of Santa Monica, Calif., who dug one out of his
shorts.
The repulsive creatures are up to three inches long, with suckers at
both ends of their stringy bodies. They attach themselves to human
flesh and sate themselves on blood, and they cannot be pried off
except with a powerful insect repellent or a burning match.
They are not poisonous or dangerous. ''They're just so
unaesthetic,'' complained Frank Morgan, a lawyer who lives in Jakarta,
Indonesia.
The climbers intend that their American Bicentennial Everest
Expedition - which they call simply ABEE - will become the second
group of Americans to conquer the mountain. The 140-mile trip to
Everest Base Camp, which will take about three weeks, started out by
bus in the Nepalese capital of Katmandu.
The first day out on the trail was a test.
The morning heat made hearts pound as climbers trudged up the rocky,
narrow steep paths. The monsoon rain in the afternoon slicked the
trails so that even the most nimble-footed hikers fell.
''I never felt so miserable in my life,'' said the expedition
le, Phil Trimble of Washington. ''I thought I was going to get
sunstroke. My legs hurt. I had stomach problems. I couldn't have been
worse.''
By midafternoon the colorful group of 12 climbers, two wives, two
girlfriends, two friends, 20 Sherpas (the tribesmen who traditionally
guide Everest expeditions), seven members of a television crew and
194 porters slogged wearily into camp, a pinpoint on the map called
Pirke, where the mists rolled over tiny, moss-covered temples,
Buddhist shrines in the memory of the dead.
By the end of the second day, 4,000 feet higher and about a dozen
miles farther along, and despite 24 hours of continuous rain, Trimble
agreed with Arlene Blum, who said, ''I wish we could walk longer.
It's rather nice to walk in the rain.''
U.S. Ambassador Marquita Maytag of Driggs, Idaho, hiked along with
the expedition for a few hours in her powder blue ABEE T-shirt. She
proved to be as adept at scrambling up the rocky trail as standing in
a receiving line. She grabbed a place on a ledge and snapped pictures
of panting climbers coming up the hill.
Most wore sturdy climbing boots, shorts and T-shirts, but Rick
Ridgeway of Malibu, Calif., mounted the hills in rubber thong sandals
and a Hawaiian-print bathing suit with a 30-pound red pack on his
back.
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AM-ABEE, Bjt - 1st Add, 290
PHEDI, Nepal: his back.
The rain teased the climbers, stopping occasionally so that the big
black umbrellas almost everyone carried could be converted to walking
sticks to help steady the way over trickling streams and mossy
boulders.
Terraced hillsides surrounded the winding trail but the beautiful
panoramas disappeared into low, gray clouds.
Red and blue tents were set up in a clearing near a pond and
exhausted climbers feasted on their first dinner on the trail -
chicken noodle soup and rice with chunks of ham and pineapple.
''The rain doesn't bother me because I was psyched up for it,'' said
Gerry Roach of Boulder, Colo. ''I knew it was going to rain every day
of this march. I'm having a ball. This is like a three-ring circus.
Nothing to do but take pictures.''
Nibbling on a mixture of candy, nuts and raisins and drinking
mountain water laced with lemon flavoring and iodine, the hikers
passed tiny villages of thatched-roof and stone houses and fields of
yellow and red dahlias, and climbed up narrow rock trails dotted with
lavender orchid-shaped flowers.
Each sets his or her own pace so that the more energetic, like
Roach, reached camp in about 3 1/2 hours. Emmett stayed right up in
front, even though strapped in a back brace, the result of a recent
slipped disc. The last of the porters, carrying 60-pound loads,
trickled in after about eight hours.
The rain stopped when camp was set up on the side of a hill, with
cows as neighbors. Clouds wisped over the lush hills, slashed by
waterfalls and terraced with bright green rice paddies and yellow
fields of corn.
Some of the group went down to the rushing river to bathe as
Nepalese children in tattered clothes stared and giggled at this
strange collection of travelers heading for Everest.
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a048 0250 12 Aug 76
PM-Everest, Bjt, 2 takes, 440-820
By JURATE KAZICKAS
Associated Press Writer
KABRE, Nepal (AP) - The days on the trail to Everest are falling
into a routine for the members of the American Bicentennial Everest
Expedition.
At 5:30 a.m., as the night's deluge tapers into a drizzle, there is
a banging of pans to waken the campers scattered about in nine tents.
They must pack up and gulp down breakfast - any combination of such
items as oatmeal, eggs, sausage chunks, peanut butter and tea - and
be on the trail by 7 o'clock.
Nearly 200 porters carrying at least 60 pounds each scramble for the
lead, looking from a distance like overburdened ants.
Then the dozen American climbers and their friends toting lighter
loads join the caravan.
The day's hike is always up and down and mostly wet, whether it
rains or not, for the trail crosses irrigation ditches, trickling
streams and rushing rivers.
The hikers nibble lunch along the way and after four to seven hours
reach their next camp, where hot milky tea awaits them.
Dinner, with rice a constant item on the menu, is served at 5:30. By
7, it is almost dark, and the climbers try to sleep.
It is the monsoon season in Nepal, and daily rain is usual. But the
hour at which it falls varies. When it is sunny, the heat is almost
unbearable. Whenait rains, the trails, wide enough for only one to
pass, are treacherously slippery.
But the American climbers are pleased.
''It's a lot easier than I thought it would be,'' said Phil Trimble
of Washington, the leader of the expedition. ''There's not too much
up and down; the walking days are short, and the countryside is very
beautiful.''
In fact, there is considerable up and down on this 140-mile trip to
the expedition's base camp, which is expected to take three weeks. In
four days of trekking, the hikers have gone from 2,500 feet above sea
level up to 8,200 feet, then down to 2,950 feet, and back up to the
village of Kabre at 6,025 feet.
The trail is often busy with Nepalese villagers coming the other
way. Except for the children, they seem generally disinterested in
this odd group, decked out in t-shirts emblazoned with the ABEE -
American Bicentennial Everest Expedition - insignia, an advertisement
for herbal teas or ''George McGovern for President.''
The Nepalese women are usually bent over under loads of grass in
baskets with head straps. They wear a tiny gold hoop in the nose as
well as a small jewel above one nostril and gold earrings as large and
ornate as military decorations in the upper part of the ears. They
dress in print blouses and long, brightly-colored print skirts and
sometimes look aghast at the hiking shorts on the American women.
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KABRE: American women.
Gerry Roach of Boulder, Colo., one of the strongest climbers in the
expedition, likes to race ahead of everyone and scramble up the rocks
with a rousing shout.
Rick Ridgeway of Malibu, Calif., finally changed from his rubber
thong sandals into the sneakers that most of the other climbers were
wearing. Another hard charger, he is inclined to dive in to cool off
when a stream is reached.
The TV film crew is an integral part of the expedition and is always
ahead, positioning itself to get the best angles on the trekkers
coming round the bend with their umbrellas or bobbing across the
wobbly suspension bridges.
The joke among the climbers is just how high up the mountain chief
cameraman Mike Hoover of Kelly, Wyo., will dare to call out, ''Let's
do that again.''
When Drs. Dee Crouch of Boulder and Chris Chandler of Seattle held
sick call in the village of Kirantichhap, dozens of ailing and curious
gathered, including some of the expedition's porters.
''This is medical school in 20 minutes,'' said Crouch, ''every
disease from A to Z. A lot of casual aches could be anything from
getting out of carrying our bags to cancer.''
One tooth definitely had to be pulled. The cameras rolled. Crouch
tugged mightily, and the tooth was free.
''Now put it back in and pull it out again,'' directed Hoover as the
patient spat blood. Couch performed as directed, shaking his head.
Dinner was served that night in the middle of the village under a
sacred pipal tree where marriages are performed. The climbers ate the
goat that was purchased on the trail after some difficult and
unsuccessful price bargaining by one of the chief Sherpa guides.
Sometimes camp is pitched in a cow field where the dung looks like
shiny flat rocks, sometimes near a stream where the weary hikers scrub
up and feel almost civilized again.
Barbara Roach, one of the two women who hope to reach the top of Mt.
Everest, does graceful dance exercises after coming into camp. Other
climbers retire to shady corners to write in their diaries, smoke, or
prattle with the children who gather around.
When it is not raining, all the wet clothes are spread on bushes and
stones and around the fields to dry. But they never dry. It starts to
rain again.
0558aED 08-12
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a071 0603 14 Aug 76
PM-Everest Climbers, Adv 18--3 takes, 480-1,290
$adv 18
For release Wed., Aug. 18
(AP correspondent Jurate Kazickas is trekking along with an American
team of men and women who will attempt to scale Mt. Everest. In this
dispatch, Ms. Kazickas sketches each of the climbers.)
---
By JURATE KAZICKAS
Associated Press Writer
ON THE TRAIL TO EVEREST, Nepal (AP) - The 12 members of the American
Bicentennial Everest Expedition are as varied as the different
shapes and sizes of the boots they hope will get them to the top of
the world's highest mountain.
The 10 men and two women are experienced climbers with mountain
conquests ranging from North America's highest, Mt. McKinley, to
previously unclimbed ridges in the Peruvian Andes and perilous faces
of the Alps.
The group now heading for the 29,028-foot peak of Mt. Everest
includes two doctors, three lawyers, a dancer, a computer scientist, a
pilot, a shipwright. There are Ph.Ds, summa cum laude graduates, a
carpenter, a sky diver. Their ages range from 27 to 38.
''The most important key to the success of this expedition,'' said
Phillip Trimble, the expedition leader and old man of the group, ''is
how everyone will get along. There has to be a level of tolerance.
There is no room for big egos. It is a total team effort.''
The nucleus of the expedition, which was mostly organized in the
short space of only four months after permission to climb was received
in March, is a group of five climbing friends-Trimble, Dan Emmett,
Frank Morgan, Hans Bruyntjes and Arlene Blumb-which expanded to 11 to
include mountaineers with more technical experience. An American
living in Nepal was recently added to complete the team.
''The success or failure of this expedition is not defined by
whether or not we get to the top,'' said Trimble. ''What I want most
is for everyone to remember a happy experience. We want to give it the
maximum effort and make it a trip we are proud of.''
Trimble heads the legal affairs section of the U.S. State Department
in Washington. A father of two, a Harvard Law School honors graduate
and a Fulbright scholar, Trimble, 38, can more easily be pictured in
his tent reading the paperback copy of ''War and Peace'' he brought
along than slogging his way up the mountain.
But he said, ''Climbing is a chance to do something that's a total
contrast to my professional life.''
-Dan Emmett, 36, a Beverly Hills, Calif., lawyer in the real estate
business, married with two children, remembered the first mention of
Everest.
''I told Trimble he was a fool to consider it, that it was not in
the realm of reason and that of course we should go. We're
mountaineers and it's the highest mountain, the ultimate challenge.
It's a great goal to strive for. Sure there are a lot more important
things to do in life, but what an opportunity!''
Frank Morgan, a native of Sacramento, Calif., is another Harvard Law
School graduate like his two friends and now practices international
corporate law in Jakarta, Indonesia. He is a bachelor who turned 38
on Sept. 8.
''I like the iea of a shared adventure like this. It's an intense
experience. The totality of your existence is involved with these
people for such a long period of time,'' said Morgan.
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PM-Everest Climbers, Adv 18--1st add, 420
$adv 18
For release WED Aug. 18
ON THE TRAIL TO EVEREST: said Morgan.
-Hans Bruyntjes, a 28-year-old former carpenter from The
Netherlands, has the self-assurance of a man who's climbed some of the
most difficult peak faces on the Alps. He said he'd rather be
climbing sheer rock walls than the snow and ice of Everest and when he
first heard about the climb, he hesitated three weeks before
accepting.
''It's dangerous, that's why, he said. ''On Everest you know you're
going to risk a lot. It's a totally different mountain that involves
80 per cent endurance and 20 per cent experience. I think it'll be
the hardest thing I'll ever do.''
-Arlene Blum, 31, is a chemistry professor from Menlo Park, Calif.,
who started climbing while a student in college in Oregon.
''It was like discovering religion,'' she said. ''Suddenly I knew
that I belonged on top of a mountain.'' She organized the first
all-women climb of Mt. McKinley in 1970 and has climbed peaks in Peru,
Ethiopia and Kashmir. She has climbed higher than anyone else in this
expedition-to a height of 23,700 feet in Afghanistan.
For this climb, Ms. Blum, who prefers Ms. to Miss, is putting off
reporting to her teaching job at Wellesley College in Massachusetts
until January.
-Mrs. Barbara Roach, who is making this trip with her husband,
Gerald, is 32 and the first woman to climb Mt. Foraker in Alaska and
the only woman to climb the south face of Chacraraju in Peru. In
regular life she is a dancer ans ays she is probably happier at that
than climbing mountains, which she starting doing 10 years ago with
her husband.
But Mrs. Roach said: ''Actually the two interests go together
nicely. I use my dance exercises to train for rock climbing. Both
involve balance, strength and control, and stability.''
-Gerard Roach, 32, a former peace Corps volunteer in India, now a
scientist with the National Center for atmospheric Research, living in
Boulder, Colo., has climbed eight of the 10 highest peaks in North
America and has been around the world twice on climbing trips with his
wife.
''Mountains are my life,'' said Roach. ''You have to have the fire,
that gut desire to get to the top. It's instinctive with me. And I'm
physically prepared for the toughest thing I've done in my life.''
-Rick Ridgeway of Malibu Calif., who at 27 is the youngest and
smallest member of the team. He has three steel pins in his leg, which
he broke last October while climbing in Yosemite. A shipwright and
now a freelance writer who hopes to write a book about Nepal's Sherpas
guides, Ridgeway has day dreamed about Everest in the past but always
dismissed it as an unlikely possibility. ''It's a real ego trip to be
here now,'' he said.
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a075 0625 14 Aug 76
PM-Everest Climbers, Adv 18-2nd add, 390
$ADV 18
For release Wed., Aug. 18
ON THE TRAIL TO EVEREST: he said.
-Chris Chandler is 23, a divorced father of three, and a doctor with
West Seattle General Hospital in Washington. He has made numerous
first ascents and blazed new routes on peaks in Nroth America and
Peru.
Everest for him is ''a neat adventure. In one way, it's just another
peak, but then there is that certain mystique about the place. And
like any other mountain, if I don't have to kill myself, I'd like to
get to the top. It would still be a good trip, an adventure, if I
don't make it.''
-Dee crouch, an emergency medical doctor in Boulder, brought along
more than 400 pounds of medical supplies on the mountain to treat
everything from hemorrhoids to broken limbs. He also is conducting
some cognitive tests, to be followed up over the next few years, to
determine the possibility of brain damage from the effects of high
altitude.
The summit is not that important to me,'' said Crouch, 33, father of
two sons. ''It has not been my life-long goal to climb mt. Everest.
Yes, I would like to get to the top but my first purpose is to care
for the people on the mountain.''
-Robert Cormack, 30, is a pilot, the owner of a rooming house in
Boulder, and an occasional physics tutor when he is not scrambling up
mountains. When Gerry Roach proposed that he join the Abe, Cormack
said he wasn't sure he really wanted to go. ''I figured it would be
one big hassle....but then I decided yes-it was a once in a lifetime
opportunity.
''Getting to the summit is my goal but I'm not prepared to die or
lose my toes and fingers for it.''
-Joe reinhard. 32, from New Lenox, Ill., is a cultural
anthropologist who has been living in Nepal for the last five years
and is fluent in Nepali. ''Everest has been on my mind ever since I
got here so I jumped at the opportunity to join the expedition But I
try not to think about being able to climb it,'' said REinhard. As
advance base camp manager, he figures his chances of getting an
opportunity to reach the summit are small. He is responsible for
working with the Sherpas and porters is getting clothing, food and
equipment to the higher camps.
An expert sky diver and Scuba diver, whose first mountain conquest
was Europe's highest, Mt. Blanc, Reinhard sees Everest as another
learning experience. ''At the end, I want the team to say they're glad
that I came along.''
End ADV WED, Aug. 18, Sent Aug. 14.
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a206 0902 14 Aug 76
AM-Everest, Bjt, 460
EDITOR'S NOTE - The writer of this dispatch is hiking along in the
Himalayan foothills with a U.S. mountain-climbing team which hopes to
scale Mt. Everest as an American Bicentennial venture.
---
By JURATE KAZICKAS
Associated Press Writer
BHAKANJE, Nepal (AP) - Moving slowly up the wooded trail, with a big
red pack and a black umbrella to ward off the rain and sometimes the
sun, Dr. Dee Crouch, a member of the American Bicentennial Everest
Expedition, is a walking experiment.
He wants to find out if it is true mountain climbers suffer
emotional upsets and depression when they come down from the peaks.
A small tape recorder is strapped to his body. Three protruding
wires are attached to three white discs taped to his chest.
The Boulder, Colo., physician, and Dr. Chris Chandler of Seattle are
conducting a scientific study. Crouch makes tape recordings of his
own heartbeat and respiratory rate to compare later with tapes of
himself and other climbers high up on Mt. Everest.
''There really have not been any significant cardiovascular studies
made above 24,000 feet,'' said Crouch, explaining the reason for this
experiment. Mt. Everest is 29,028 feet.
The tapes pick up irregular heart beats or breathing patterns.
Crouch is keeping a log book of his daily activities. There is also a
button he can activate to note on the tape when there has been
unusual stress activity.
Besides this experiment, Crouch will be testing others in the
12-member team to determine the physiological and psychological
effects of high altitude. Two women are in the climbing group.
''There has been some speculation that there can be permanent brain
damage as a result of living at high altitudes for any extended
period of time,'' he said.
''Because of the loss of oxygen - hypoxia - general mental functions
are impaired, color vision goes, fine motor functions are affected
and the ability to do reasoning problems decreases.''
Crouch has already tested four of the climbers from the Boulder area
for their skill in those various functions and plans to test them
again upon their return from Everest in November, and then again one
year and two years later.
Crouch also gave the climbers a standard personality test.
''It has also been observed that climbers suffer a certain degree of
depression, emotional upsets, divorces, and job changes after a climb
like Everest,'' said Crouch. ''I'd like to collect some data to
verify that and compare the data with national averages concerning
such changes among a comparable group of people.''
James T. Lester, a clinical psychologist who acompanied the 1963
American Everest expedition, and who now works with the Navy in
Boston, is still going over data he collected back then.
In a recent interview, he recalled that several of his fellow
expedition members were divorced and experienced depression later.
1202pED 08-14
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a578 2103 23 Aug 76
BC-TV Week, Adv 29 - 3 takes, 480-1,080
$Adv 29
AGENCIES AND RADIO OUT
For Release Sun Aug 29
FROM AP NEWSFEATURES
APN Print Subscribers Have Been Mailed One Illustration
EDITOR'S NOTES - For Harriet Nelson, working is a lifetime habit.
''Somehow, without working, you find you don't know who you are.''
---
By JAY SHARBUTT
AP Television Writer
LOS ANGELES (AP) - In June a year ago, Ozzie Nelson, the
bandleader-turned-actor whose ''Adventures of Ozzie and Harriet''
entertained millions for 22 years on radio and TV, died of cancer at
age 69.
A year later, Harriet, his wife for nearly 40 years and show
business partner since 1932, was contacted by Carol Jones, a friend
and also a casting director for a TV movie being planned.
There was a meaty role in it, calling for a middle-aged woman to
play the part of a terminally ill dean of a women's college. She and
her husband became victims in a 39-car collision on a California
freeway.
''Carol said to the producer, 'I think this (part) is Harriet,'''
Mrs. Nelson recalled. ''And he said, 'Do you think she'd like to
work?' So Carol called me. And I said, 'You just know I'd like to
work.'''
And her work will appear on ABC come Saturday, Sept. 18, in a
two-hour movie called ''Smash-Up on Interstate 5.''
For Harriet Nelson, a slender, humorous, matter-of-fact woman, it's
not only an acting job, it's also part of the process of coming out
of the shell into which she retreated after Ozzie's death.
''It's sort of a continuation of life which you must face, you
know?'' she said. ''There's no alternative.''
She was speaking at her home near the ocean, in Laguna Beach. She
prefaced the conversation by remarking what a lovely, sunny day it was
and how briskly the seagulls were cavorting.
She also spoke about her two sons and co-stars from the old
''Adventures'' days on TV - Ricky, now 36, and a pop music star, and
David, 40, involved in film editing, producing and a little acting.
In fact, she said, David even briefly appears in ''Smash-up on
Interstate 5,'' playing a California Highway Patrol trooper.
She said that when she consulted the boys about going back into
acting ''they were just delighted. I think they were more excited
about it than I was.
''They wanted so much for me to go back to work, I think, because
they knew what it would do for me.''
They didn't push her about it after Ozzie's death, she added, ''but
they were so ecstatic about it when I went back to work I knew they'd
been wishing.''
For Harriet Nelson, whose parents also were actors, work comes as
what she calls ''a lifetime habit. And somehow, without working, you
find you don't know who you are.''
Her work started six weeks after her birth in Des Moines, Iowa, when
her parents took her onstage in a play. Her first speaking part came
at the ripe old age of 3 in a Midwest opus called ''Mrs. Wiggs of the
Cabbage Patch.''
She retired at age 5 - school, you know - but 11 years later, after
graduating from St. Agnes Academy in Kansas City, the teen-ager known
as Harriet Hilliard returned to show biz.
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a330 2123 23 Aug 76
AM-Advances, Advisory,
Eds: The following advances moved this cycle:
Weekeday Advances:
NEW YORK - Religion Today, Adv for Fri, Aug. 27. a306-309.
ON THE TRAIL TO EVEREST, Nepal- Everest Women, Adv for Mon, Aug. 30.
a316-318.
Sunday Advance:
LOS ANGELES - TV Week, Adv for Sun, Aug. 29. a578-579-580.
0026aED 08-24
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n096 2156 23 Aug 76
qiqqseqsfl
BC-TRAVEL NOTE Adv29 2takes 900
FOR RELEASE SUN AUG 29
By ROBERT J. DUNPHY
c.1976 N.Y. Times News Service
NEW YORK - One of the nation's most unusual communities,
Arcosanti, rising on a remote mesa at Cordes Junction, 70
miles north of Phoenix, Ariz., will be the site of an arts
festival Oct. 29-31. The purpose of the festival is to introduce
Arcosanti to the general public. The part now being built
is the first stage of a projected urban complex that has
long been the dream of controversial architect Paolo Soleri.
With meager financing and a group of dedicated student disciples
working with little more than shovels and bare hands, the
52-year-old Italian-born architect, who studied under Frank
Lloyd Wright, has been striving to build in the desert a
soaring, self-contained city that will eliminate the sprawl
and pollution of the modern megalopolis.
Soleri's concept centers on ''arcology,'' which combines
architecture and ecology and is said to offer the advantages
of urban life free of the problems of transportation, pollution
and waste and to incorporate ''the natural and man-made world
in a mutually respective relationship.'' The main idea is
to redirect the thrust of cities from a spreading horizontal
to a compact vertical.
Soleri established the Cosanti Foundation outside of Phoenix
as a nonprofit educational urban-planning laboratory, and
in 1970 he began construction of Arcosanti, a city that,
instead of occupying 300 square miles three or four stories
high, would be limited to a few square miles and would soar
many stories high. When completed, the segment of Arcosanti
currently under construction will rise 25 stories above the
mesa and cover only 10 acres of the 860-acre tract purchased
for the project.
Arcosanti is a prototype ''arcology'' community designed
for 3,000 people. Seven-week workshops conducted on the white
have drawn thousands of students from all over the world.
Eventually, it is hoped, Arcosanti will become a university
town specializing in urban research.
Soleri's theories have been attacked by conventional architects
and designers as realistically improbable and technically
impossible, but the initial structures at Arcosanti have
attracted builders and planners from throughout the world.
During the October festival there will be performances of
classical music, jazz and rock groups and appearances by
several nationally recognized dance companies. In addition,
some of the finest artisans of the Southwest will exhibit
and sell their wares. The Arcosanti site lies just off Interstate
17, about an hour's drive north of Phoenix.
For information on the Arcosanti Festival, write the Cosanti
Foundation, 6433 East Doubletree Road, Scotsdale, Ariz. 85253,
or the Arizona Department of Tourism, 1645 West Washington,
Room 501, Phoenix, Ariz. 85007 (tel.: 602-271-3618).
EVEREST CLEAN-UP
A student ''clean-up trek'' to the base of Mount Everest
in Nepal is being planned for Feb. 18-March 21 next year
by Mountain Travel Inc., 1398 Solano Avenue, Albany, Calif.
94706. The trip is one of eight treks the agency has projected
for the first half of next year to Nepal, the home of eight
of the world's 10 highest mountains. The clean-up trek, Mountain
Travel says, is being offered below cost to students and
others under 35 ''who are strong, energetic and willing to
make a contribution to the preservation of Nepal's delicate
mountain environment.''
''The increase in the number of trekkers in the Himalayas,
combined with the increasing number of major expeditions
on Munt Everest,'' according to Mountain Travel, ''has created
an unfortunate problem: trash and litter in Shangri-La.''
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w york; shangri-La.''
Two clean-up efforts were undertaken at Everest this year
- one by Mountain Travel and the other by Evergreen College
in Olympia, Wash. The trek next February, according to the
company, will be ''a real working trek, with fewer Sherpas
and porters, and the participants will be expected to carry
their own gear and engage in a variety of tasks from picking
up accumulated litter to digging disposal sites for debris.''
Says a spokesman for Mountain Travel: ''We hope by offering
this kind of trek to focus attention on the need for all
trekkers and climbers not to abuse the sanctity of mountain
environments.'' The inclusive cost, including round-trip
air fare between New York and Katmandu, is $1,691.
INDIAN CENTER
The Indian Pueblo Cultural Center, a tax-exempt, nonprofit
enterprise wholly owned by the 19 Pueblo Indian communities
of New Mexico, has opened in Albuquerque on an 11-acre tract
deeded to the Pueblos by the Department of the Interior.
The center is designed to ''advance the understanding and
to insure the perpetuation of Pueblo culture by serving as
a prime source of research for scholars, artists and writers.''
Described as ''the smallest Indian reservation in the United
States,'' it features a museum highlighting the Pueblos'
past, an arts and crafts market, a living arts program, film
and drama presentations and demonstrations of Indian craftspeople
at work. The center has an Indian restaurant serving such
Pueblo specialties as rabbit and mutton stews, red and green
chili stews, posole, fry bread, Indian oven bread and, occasionally,
venison or buffalo. The location of the center, close to
the intersection of Interstate Highways 40 and 25, is convenient
to the Pueblo villages that stretch along the Rio Grande.
Admission is $1 for adults and 50 cents for children.
KLONDIKE PARK
The site of America's last great gold rush is being memorialized
in the Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park in Alaska.
The park will be composed of three units in the state plus
an interpretative center in Seattle, Wash., the city which
served as the jumping-off point for thousands of adventurers
heading for the Kondike in 1897-98.
Completion of the park is expected in about five years,
with 16 historic buildings being acquired in Skagway, a community
that grew in a few months from a single trading post to a
brawling city of 10,000 miners awaiting the spring thaw of
1898. The town's wooden boardwalks and weather-beaten buildings
still retain a tun-of-the-century flavor, making Skagway
a favorite port-of-call with passengers on Inland Passage
ferries and cruise ships.
The 13,720-acre park could become part of an international
preserve if plans now under way to combine it with the Canadian
Klondike come to fruition. The Canadian portion of the Klondike
Trail leads from the international border near Skagway down
the Yukon River to Dawson and the gold fields.
0824 0101aed
***************
a080 0653 27 Aug 76
PM-Everest, 180
KATMANDU, Nepal (AP) - The American Bicentennial Everest ELISHED A BASE CAMP FO-
R ITS ATTEMPT TO SCALE THE 1/4&,? 1/4-+FOOT
MOUNTAIN, THE Nepalese Foreign Ministry said today.
A spokesman told reporters the ministry had received word from the
expedition that the base camp, reached Thursday, is on the west bank
of the Khumbu glacier at an elevation of 18,000 feet.
The 12-member team led by Phillip R. Tremble, 38, of Washington,
D.C., left Katmandu three weeks ago to hike to the mountain, the
world's highest.
Before leaving Katmandu, Trimble said his party would try to reach
the top of Everest by the end of September or early October.
From the base camp the Americans will begin their actual climb. They
first will have to negotiate a route along a treacherous icefall -
which has claimed the lives of about a dozen men in the past - on
their way to Camp No. 1 at 20,200 feet.
John E. Brietefbach, 27, of Jackson, Wyo., a member of the first
American Everest expedition, was killed on March 23, 1963, while
making the route on the icefall.
0956aED 08-27
***************
a201 0926 31 Aug 76
AM-News Digest,
AP NEWS DIGEST
Wednesday AMs
Here are the top stories in sight at this hour for AMs. The General
Desk Night Supervisor is Ed Dennehy. He may be reached at 212
262-6093 if you have any urgent questions about the spot news report.
RUSSIANS-U. S. WHEAT
WASHINGTON - The Agriculture Department announces the sale of
275,000 metric tons of wheat to the Soviet Union, but officials
anticipate no hike in domestic food prices as a result of the sale.
New material.
MOSCOW - Fifteen young Americans end two months of observing and
working on Soviet farms with respect for some of the workers they met
but doubts about the efficiency of Soviet agriculture. An AP News
Special. New. Will stand. Wirephoto upcoming.
SOUTH AFRICA
PHILADELPHIA - Secretary of State Henry Kissinger declares South
Africa's policy of racial desegregation is ''incompatible with any
concept of human dignity.'' Developing. Wirephoto covering.
WINDHOEK, South-West Africa - Mixed-race delegates to the talks on
the future of South-West Africa maneuver for a compromise as the
U.N.-set deadline passes for South Africa to declare its willingness
to allow U.N. elections in the territory. New materia.
POLITICS
SACRAMENTO, Calif. - Democratic vice presidential nominee Walter
Mondale meets privately with Gov. Edmund Brown Jr. Developing. News
conference scheduled at 2:30 p.m. EDT. Wirephoto covering.
WASHINGTON - Democrat Jimmy Carter plans to ride a train in a
whistle-stop tour reminiscent of campaigns of another era. Developing.
Wirephoto WX2.
LAS VEGAS, Nevada - Delegates to the United Steelworkers convention
begin consideration of policy resolutions, including an outline of
collective bargaining goals and a move to endorse the Democratic
Carter-Mondale ticket. Developing.
With Dole separate and Undated Political Roundup.
NATIONAL
HANFORD, Wash. - Officials are uncertain when they will resume with
a nuclear waste refining process that was shut down when 10 workers
were exposed to radiation in a chemical explosion. New material.
Wirephoto KEN1.
CLEVELAND - A federal judge rules the Cleveland school board
fostered racial segregation and the Ohio Board of Education did little
to correct it. New material. Wirephoto CD3.
LOS ANGELES - William and Emily Harris face sentencing on
convictions of kidnaping, robbery and car theft in the end of a stormy
trial. Developing.
SAN CARLOS, Calif. - ''We can put a man on the moon, but we can't
get the deer out of San Carlos,'' says one resident of this city where
thirsty deer are roving the streets and making snacks of homeowners'
roses. New, will stand. Wirephoto FX3.
INTERNATIONAl
LONDON - A magistrate begins sentencing 60 persons arrested in a
black neighborhood after a night of rioting, looting and street
battles between police and carnival revelers. New material. Wirephoto
upcoming.
NAMCHE BAZAR, Nepal - For a few Everest hopefuls, Namche Bazar
provides the first glimpse of Mt. Everest, the peak they had come to
climb. New, will stand. Wirephoto upcoming.
THE SWISS ARE COMING, THE SWISS ARE COMING!
BERN, Switzerland - A Swiss army unit of 75 soldiers and 50 horses
takes the wrong path at a junction and accidentally invades the tiny
principality of Liechtenstein. New material, will stand. Wirephoto
Cartoon NY12.
1230pED 08-31
***************
a226 1122 31 Aug 76
AM-Everest Bjt, 490
EDITOR'S NOTE: This dispatch, carried to Katmandu by special runner,
was written Aug. 18 by AP Correspondent Jurate Kazickas, who is
accompanying the 12-member U.S. Bicentennial Everest Expedition
through preparations to scale the world's highest peak. Since then the
climbers have established a base camp on the Khumbu glacier for its
assault on Everest.
By JURATE KAZICKAS
Associated Press Writer
NAMCHE BAZAR, Nepal (AP) - For a few Everest hopefuls, Namche Bazar
provided the first glimpse of the mountain they had come to climb.
But for most members of the American Bicentennial Everest
Expedition, three days in this Sherpa trading town meant shopping,
sleep and hot showers.
''At first I wasn't sure it was really Everest I was looking at,''
said Bob Cormack of Boulder, Colo., who had climbed to the top of the
hill overlooking camp one early morning hoping to see the 29,028-foot
mountain.
''I started looking for the familiar features and sure enough -
there was Everest.''
''Looks pretty good,'' said Chris Chandler of Seattle, staring at
the pyramid of snow etched sharply above the massive Nuptselhotse Wass
surrounded by a billowing mass of clouds.
A few expedition members ran up to the ridge for a look, but by 7
o'clock Everest had been swallowed by the monsoon clouds that so far
on the march to base camp have obscured most of the Himalaya peaks.
''We've just exchanged the warm rain for the cold rain,'' sighed
Arlene Blum of Menlo Park, Calif. Every afternoon of the three days
the climbers stayed in Namche, a gentle, but steady, chilly rain fell.
Expedition leader Phillip R. Trimble, 38, of Washington, D.C.,
stayed off a sprained ankle and lay in his tent, reading a cultural
history of Nepal while a tape recorder played Beethoven's string
quartets.
The climbers made the 10-minute hike into town several times a day
to gather at the home of Pasang Kami, the Sherpa base camp manager,
and sort out their clothing and supplies for the mountain. They
finished the repacking with glasses of chang, the local rice beer.
Last-minute purchases included prayer flags recommended by the Lama
of Roongbuk. Frank Morgan, a lawyer practicing in Jakarta, and Chris
Chandler bought Nepali boots of felt, leather and wool for about $6.
Others bargained for necklaces of coral and turquoise and went for a
lunch of fried noodles at the Himalaya Hotel, where the nightly rate
is about 50 cents.
The ultimate luxury after two weeks on the trail was the hot shower,
the result of an interesting arrangement of rubber tubes from the
upstairs window of a house to a small shelter with an overhead faucet.
It worked and was available for about 40 cents.
Barbara and Gerry Roach of Boulder hiked to the Japanese Everest
View Hotel, now closed until October. They almost lost each other in
the fog as Gerry bounded ahead, pacing himself with watch and
altimeter.
Dr. Dee Crouch of Boulder made a trip to Kunde to the hospital
founded 10 years ago by Sir Edmund Hillary. There he met with Dr. Rob
Riley and his wife Leigh, of Christchurch, New Zealand, and discussed
procedures in case any expedition member has an accident on Everest.
By the end of three days, most of the climbers were restless to hit
the trail again. From Namche Bazar at 11,300 feet to the base camp at
nearly 18,000 feet acclimatization could be a problem, so the trek
was to be gradual with a two-day stop at Pheriche (13,900 feet).
1420pED 08-31
- - - - - -
a249 1323 31 Aug 76
AM-Everest, Bjt, Sub, a226, 30
NAMCHE BAZAR, to specify Nuptse and Lhotse peaks sub 5th graf: A few
. . . Himalaya peaks.
''Looks pretty good,'' said Chris Chandler of Seattle, staring at
the pyramid of snow etched sharply above the Nuptse and Lhotse peaks
surrounded by a billowing mass of clouds.
A few 6th graf
1627pED 08-31
***************
a075 0554 03 Sep 76
PM-Everest, 230
KATMANDU, Nepal (AP) - The American Bicentennial Everest Expedition
has crossed the dangerous Khumbu icefall in its attempt to climb the
world's highest mountain and set up Camp 1, according to a radio
message received today from the base camp.
The message said the expedition crossed the icefall and set up the
camp Thursday at an elevation of 19,400 feet, 800 feet below the Camp
1 site of the first American Everest expedition in 1963.
A CBS television cameraman fell 50 feet on the crevasse-laced
glacier during the ascent but was reported unhurt. He was identified
as Jonathan T. Wright, 24, of Aspen, Colo.
A dozen men have died crossing the mile-long icefall, including John
M. Breitenbach, 27, of Jackson Hole, Wyo., a member of the first
American expedition.
The 12-member team set up a base camp at 18,000 feet Aug. 25 and
began work the following day on finding a route through the Khumbu
icefall.
The expedition, led by Phil Trimble, 38, of Washington, D.C., plans
to pitch five more camps in preparation for the final assault on Mt.
Everest's 29,028-foot summit by early October.
The climbers will have to cover about 3 1/2 to 4 miles between Camp 1
and Camp 2. Although there is some danger of crevasses and avalanches,
the route is not considered very difficult and has claimed no lives.
0853aED 09-03
***************
a059 0320 04 Sep 76
PM-Everest, 150
KATMANDU, Nepal (AP) - The American Bicentennial Everest Expedition
temporarily has lost one of its 12 members. Mrs. Barbara Roach was
flown here today from the Everest base for treatment of a toothache
that has been nagging her for two weeks.
''I had my teeth checked before I left home. It's crazy,'' said the
31-year-old climber from Boulder, Colo.
She plans to return by helicopter to the 18,000-foot-high Everest
base camp early next week to rejoin the expedition, whose members plan
to reach Mt. Everest's 29,028-summit by early October.
Mrs. Roach, whose husband Gerard remained on the mountain, said the
team's morale was ''good and high.''
Four Americans and four Sherpa guides crossed the dangerous Khumbu
icefall on Thursday without serious trouble and established Camp No. 1
at 19,400 feet. Five more camps will be established before the final
assault on the world's highest peak.
0620aED 09-04
***************
a205 0958 06 Sep 76
AM-Everest Climb, Bjt - 2 Takes, 440-600
Editor's Note: AP Correspondent Jurate Kazickas is on the trail to
Mt. Everest with a 12-member American team that hopes to conquer the
world's highest mountain. This dispatch was written last Tuesday and
hand-carried down the mountain to Katmandu, Nepal.
---
By JURATE KAZICKAS
Associated Press Writer
EVEREST BASE CAMP (AP) - After 23 days of hiking higher and higher,
until trees and flowers were replaced by rocks and ice, the American
Bicentennial Everest Expedition has reached the staging base for its
climb of the world's highest mountain.
Just hours away from the base camp, located at 17,500 feet, the
monsoon rain that had continually soaked the 12 climbers, television
camera crew and friends turned to a driving, sleeting snow.
The grim silence of the hike through the barren terrain was
interrupted only by the jangling of the bells on the yaks as they
trudged by, loaded down with tables, chairs and boxes of climbing
gear.
Near the base camp, weird ice shapes loomed suddenly out of the
rocks and gravel - huge glacial blocks resembling fins of giant
sharks, enormous candle drippings, taut sails of giant clippers.
The base camp looked like an abandoned granite quarry. It was not
much more than a vast rubble of rocks, a dismal place with a few tents
perched precariously on top of the boulders.
''After trudging for 6 1/2 hours with my ankle hurting badly, sliding
and slipping over the ice, it was with a mixture of resentment and
relief that I saw base camp,'' said expedition leader Philip Trimble
of Washington, D.C. Trimble sprained his ankle two weeks ago.
The next morning, after a snowfall during the night, the day dawned
sparkling bright and clear. All around the mountains shone like
glossy pyramids.
Right in front of the tents was a gigantic cascade of snow and ice
blocks - the Khumbu icefall and the gentle, sloping west shoulder of
Mt. Everest.
''This is the first morning worth getting up for,'' said Hans
Bruyntjes of Holland, gazing at the icefall, where 12 men have died
trying to make the mile-long, crevasse-laden crossing which begins the
climb.
The Sherpa guides held a special ceremony to Meyu Long Sama, the
goddess of Everest, for good fortune. Before a small altar that is
kept constantly burning with fragrant branches, they placed a huge
platter of pastries, candies and dried fruits.
The Sherpas filled their canteens with rice wine and dabbed them
with butter. Throwing bits of rice into the fire, they chanted and
cheered, waving red, blue, green and yellow prayer flags over the
smoke and pushed against each other to breathe from the sacred fire.
More
1258pED 09-06
- - - - - -
a236 1254 06 Sep 76
AM-Everest Climb, Correction, a205-206, 50
EVEREST BASE CAMP: To fix name of photographer, sub next-to-last
graf, sent as 4th graf a206:
(Editor's Note: The expedition sent a radio message Friday saying it
had crossed the dangerous icefall and set up a camp at an elevation
of 19,400 feet. A CBS television cameraman - Jonathan T. Wright, 24,
of Aspen, Colo. - fell 50 feet during the crossing but was not hurt,
the message said.
(The expedition, last graf
1554pED 09-06
***************
a206 1002 06 Sep 76
AM-Everest Climb, Bjt - lst Add, 160
EVEREST BASE CAMP: sacred fire.
Expedition members spent the morning sorting out high-altitude gear.
Dr. Dee Crouch organized a tent full of medical supplies and hung out
a yellow cloth reading:
''Khumbu Community Hospital - hours by appointment, no maternity
services, shirt and shoes must be worn. Bank America welcome. We
reserve the right to refuse service to anyone.''
That night there was the occasional crashing sound of avalanches
from the surrounding mountain and one ominous creaking groan as the
crevass under the camp stretched a little.
---
(Editors' Note: The expedition sent a radio message Friday saying it
had crossed the dangerous icefall and set up a camp at an elevation
of 19,400 feet. A CBS television cameraman - Jonathan T. Writher, 24,
of Aspen, Colo. - fell 50 feet during the crossing but was not hurt,
the message said.
(The expedition will set up five more camps before making the final
assault on Mt. Everest's 29,028-foot summit by early October.)
1302pED 09-06
***************
a087 0708 08 Sep 76
PM-Everest, 330
By BINAYA GURUACHARYA
KATMANDU, Nepal (AP) - The American Bicentennial Everest Expedition
has established its second camp at 21,000 feet, the base camp
reported to Nepal's Foreign Ministry by radio today.
The message said the camp was pitched Tuesday on the top of the
western Cwm - the Welsh name for the high valley given by early
British explorers of the Everest region.
The camp was set up by Frank Morgan, 37, Dee Crouch, 33, Gerry
Roach, 32, and Dan Emmett, 36, assisted by Sherpa guides.
The 12-member expedition led by Phil Trimble, 38, of Washington,
D.C., is using the camp as its advance base camp for the attempt on
Everest, the world's highest mountain at 29,028 feet.
The camp is between Mt. Lhotsen, 27,890 feet, and Nuptse, 25,850
feet, Mt. Everest's two sister peaks.
From there, the Americans will climb up through the Lhotse face on
their way to the south col, jumping off place for the assault on
Everest.
Gerry Roach's wife Barbara, also a member of the expedition, left
Katmandu today to rejoin the climbing party after treatment for a
toothache. Mrs. Roach, 32, of Boulder, Colo., took a helicopter to
Syangboche at 12,800 feet, from where she will have to climb about 15
miles to reach what she calls ''my aim'' on Everest.
It should take her about six days to reach the base camp.
''I would be walking slowly to make sure that I get acclimatized
again,'' said Mrs. Roach, who went into Katmandu Saturday.
Two women are in the expedition. Both Mrs. Roach and Arlene Blum,
31, of Berkeley, Calif., want to be the first American woman to climb
Everest. Mrs. Roach rejected the idea of the two women climbing
together, saying she prefers to climb with her husband.
''I prefer to go with him because I trust him the most,'' she said.
''We would like to be the first husband and wife on the summit.''
Two other women, a Japanese and a Tibetan, have already stood on the
top of Everest.
1009aED 09-08
***************
a091 0737 14 Sep 76
PM-Everest, 110
KATMANDU, Nepal (AP) - Continuous heavy snow on Mt. Everest for the
last four days has halted the American Bicentennial Everest
Expedition, the Nepalese Foreign Ministry reported today.
But a message from the expedition's base camp said the Americans and
their Sherpa porters were ''safe and in good physical condition.''
The expedition established its third camp Friday, one day behind
schedule, at 23,000 feet, 6,028 feet below the summit of the world's
tallest mountain.
The climbers have to pitch three more camps before making the final
assault on the peak. Until the snowstorm, they had hoped to make the
summit attempt between Sept. 30 and Oct. 2.
1037aED 09-14
***************
a024 0010 15 Sep 76
PM-Everest, Bjt, 2 takes, 450-730
EDITOR'S NOTE: This dispatch was written on Sept. 5 and brought down
from Mt. Everest by messenger.
---
By JURATE KAZICKAS
Associated Press Writer
EVEREST BASE CAMP (AP) - The American Bicentennial Everest
Expedition, like other such groups before it, is having its share of
tensions and minor problems.
Inevitable personality clashes are made more severe by close-in
living under tough and dangerous conditions for as long as two months.
The expedition has been together now for more than six weeks. There
are 11 American climbers, including two women, and a Dutchman; a
five-man camera crew, which started out as seven; a woman journalist
and until a few days ago three friends.
Persons showing up a few minutes after the gong sounds for meals
sometimesfind nowhere to sit or no more tasty yakburgers.
''Look around, there are 11 superfluous people here,'' said Gerry
Roach of Boulder, Colo., one evening.
''If we didn't have all these extra people we'd only need half as
many sherpas (Nepalese guides and porters), half as much food, half as
much oxygen. The whole thing would be that much simpler.''
Although CBS Sports paid the expedition $40,000 for exclusive TV
coverage of the climb, the film crew has been the target of most of
the talk about extraneous people on the climb.
Some climbers objected to being asked to repeat actions the film
crew missed. They wondered aloud how far up the mountain they would be
asked to make such repeats.
Some worried that the camera crew's zeal in getting good footage
would interfere with the climbers' summit attempts. They argued there
were not enough sherpas or oxygen for a camera crew to be near the
summit at the crucial times. CBS later paid for extra sherpas and
found available oxygen.
Some climbers made a point of avoiding a party the CBS men arranged
in Pheriche with dancing around a bonfire.
An amicable meeting was held during the approach march to ease the
tensions but only a few days ago at the base camp, Arlene Blum of
Menlo Park, Cal., said: ''It is repugnant to me to be on a mountain
with a number of people whose only job is to record the action.''
Chief cameraman Mike Hoover assured her that in case of an accident
his men would put down their cameras to help.
''There's no conflict of interest. The film suffers,'' he said.
But Ms. Blum, who prefers the feminist designation, did not look
convinced.
Phil Trimble, the expedition leader from Washington, D.C., thought
the three-week approach march over 148 miles of Nepalese countryside
would be a time for the climbers to get to know each other better and
to start working as a team.
But instead of different tentmates each night and walking along the
trail with a different group each day, the expedition members
separated into the same pairings most days.
MORE
0310aED 09-15
***************
a025 0016 15 Sep 76
PM-Everest, Bjt, 1st Add, 280
EVEREST BASE CAMP: most days.
After dinner there was rarely any socializing, and the pairs or
trios would retreat into their tents by 7 o'clock, saying they were
tired.
''I just don't get the feeling that this is a team,'' said Hans
Bruyntjes, the Dutch member of the expedition, after a meeting one
night at the base camp.
''It's just a couple of people who happen to be together. I have
less confidence in this group than when I started. I want to know who
I'm going to be paired up with. It's dangerous up there and this is
my life. There are some people I have a lot less confidence in than
others. And confidence is something that grows and we have to work
into it.''
His forceful, spontaneous outburst stunned Trimble and the rest of
the group, but it did not seem to mobilize any sort of new
togetherness.
Days later Bruyntjes and another climber got into an angry shouting
match, each challenging the other's ability and ancestry. Insults
mounted until Trimble, a man of considerable calm, patience and wit,
interrupted and suggested that the two not climb together for a few
days.
The hostility did not last long, and the two climbed up the Khumbu
ice fall two days later. But not on the same rope.
There have been no major problems with the sherpas. They seem quite
pleased with their equipment, which is the same as the Americans',
from big red down parkas to pocket flashlights.
A group of porters hired in Namche Bazar protested that their wages
were too low, but they were appeased by a pair of army jungle boots
for each of them.
0315aED 09-15
***************
a092 0627 17 Sep 76
PM-Himalayan Death,80
URGENT
NEW DELHI, India (AP) - The daughter of a famed American mountain
climber, who named her for the Nanda Devi peak in the Himalayas, has
died while trying to scale the mountain with him, the Indian
Mountaineering Foundation announced today.
Nanda Devi Unsoeld, 22, of Olympia, Wash., succumbed to ''acute high
altitude sickness'' on Sept. 8, the foundation said.
She died on an expedition led by her father, William F. Unsoeld, to
the 25,645-foot peak about 210 miles northeast of New Delhi.
More
0927aED 09-17
- - - - - -
a096 0700 17 Sep 76
PM-Himalayan Death, 1st Add,a092
NEW DELHI add: New Delhi.
Unsoeld and another American in 1963 were the first Americans to
climb Mt. Everest, the world's highest peak, and the first ever to
climb it by the western ridge. Their climb came 10 years after Sir
Edmund Hillary of New Zealand and Sherpa Tenzing Norkay first
conquered the mountain.
Unsoeld first saw Nanda Devi peak while touring India in 1948 as a
student. Touched by its beauty, he vowed to name his first daughter
after the mountain.
Nanda Devi Unsoeld began climbing when she was 14, and this year she
was a full-fledged member of her father's latest expedition, which
coincided, but had no connection with, the American Bicentennial
Everest Expedition.
''I feel a very close relationship with Nanda Devi,'' she told
reporters on July 6, three days before the expedition left for the
peak.
''I cannot describe it, but there is something within me about this
mountain ever since I was born.''
She died, according to the announcement, while at the expedition's
fourth camp at a height of 23,616 feet, about 2,000 feet below the
summit she had hoped to reach.
1000aED 09-17
***************
a092 0627 17 Sep 76
PM-Himalayan Death,80
URGENT
NEW DELHI, India (AP) - The daughter of a famed American mountain
climber, who named her for the Nanda Devi peak in the Himalayas, has
died while trying to scale the mountain with him, the Indian
Mountaineering Foundation announced today.
Nanda Devi Unsoeld, 22, of Olympia, Wash., succumbed to ''acute high
altitude sickness'' on Sept. 8, the foundation said.
She died on an expedition led by her father, William F. Unsoeld, to
the 25,645-foot peak about 210 miles northeast of New Delhi.
More
0927aED 09-17
- - - - - -
a096 0700 17 Sep 76
PM-Himalayan Death, 1st Add,a092
NEW DELHI add: New Delhi.
Unsoeld and another American in 1963 were the first Americans to
climb Mt. Everest, the world's highest peak, and the first ever to
climb it by the western ridge. Their climb came 10 years after Sir
Edmund Hillary of New Zealand and Sherpa Tenzing Norkay first
conquered the mountain.
Unsoeld first saw Nanda Devi peak while touring India in 1948 as a
student. Touched by its beauty, he vowed to name his first daughter
after the mountain.
Nanda Devi Unsoeld began climbing when she was 14, and this year she
was a full-fledged member of her father's latest expedition, which
coincided, but had no connection with, the American Bicentennial
Everest Expedition.
''I feel a very close relationship with Nanda Devi,'' she told
reporters on July 6, three days before the expedition left for the
peak.
''I cannot describe it, but there is something within me about this
mountain ever since I was born.''
She died, according to the announcement, while at the expedition's
fourth camp at a height of 23,616 feet, about 2,000 feet below the
summit she had hoped to reach.
1000aED 09-17
- - - - - -
a099 0710 17 Sep 76
PM-Himalayan Death, 2nd Add, a096, 200
NEW DELHI add: reach.
Miss Unsoeld came to India in 1974 but was not allowed to go to the
Nanda Devi that year because the peak, which is on the border of
Chinese-ruled Tibet, was then closed to foreigners.
This year her father received the necessary permission and hoped to
lead an Indo-American expedition to the summit over the unconquered
northwest face.
Nanda Devi peak was first climbed in 1964 and the feat has been
repeated subsequently, but always by the less difficult southwest
face.
Miss Unsoeld was a student at Evergreen State College at Olympia.
She said in an interview two months ago: ''I have been brought up in
the mountains. I have lived a third of my life in Nepal and am
familiar with the Himalayas. The mountains will always be a part of my
life.''
But she said she had no plans to make mountaineering a career.
''I feel it is a form of escapism,'' she said. ''It is easy to turn
your eyes away from the social problems of the world and concentrate
on yourself in mountains.
''It is good for a short period, but if you feel involved with
social problems, you cannot like that kind of thing for long.''
There was no immediate word when Unsoeld and other members of the
expedition would return to Delhi.
1010aED 09-17
- - - - - -
a120 0852 17 Sep 76
PM-Himalayan Death, Correction, a092, 30
NEW DELHI to correct date from 1964 to 1936 sub following for 15th
graf:
Nanda Devi peak was first climbed in 1936 and the feat has been
repeated subsequently, but always by the less difficult southwest
face.
Miss Unsoeld, 16th graf.
1151aED 09-17
***************
a005 2205 17 Sep 76
PM-Everest, 390
KATMANDU, Nepal (AP) - Seven members of the American Bicentennial
Everest Expedition reopened a route back to their base camp along the
treacherous Khumbu icefall after being cut off by a six-day
snowstorm, U.S. Embassy officials reported.
They identified the climbers as Gerard Roach, Dee Crouch, Dan
Emmett, Frank Morgan, Joe Reinhard, Robert Cormac and CBS Sports
cameraman Jonathan Wright.
The actual climbing team numbers 12, including two women.
Roach was quoted by the officials Friday as saying by radio
telephone from the base camp that the snow stopped Thursday ''and the
weather really began to improve.''
The snowstorm, which began Saturday, covered the trail the climbers
had cut on and above the icefall.
''On Wednesday large avalanches came down in between Camp 1 at
19,000 feet and Camp 2 at 21,000 feet,'' Roach said. ''We had several
feet of snow.''
The Khumbu icefall is a steep, three-mile-long, slow-moving river of
hunks of ice, some as big as a four-story building. The area is
honeycombed with deep crevasses, and avalanches are frequent. Most
fatalities in climbing Everest have occurred at the icefall.
At the base camp Roach rejoined his wife, Barbara, one of the women
on the climbing team. She had left for Katmandu for treatment of a
toothache and returned Wednesday.
A U.S. Embassy official said that after resting this weekend, most
of the mountaineers will resume their climb toward the 29,028-foot
summit of Mt. Everest, the world's highest peak.
The official said the expedition leader, Phil Trimble, 38, of
Washington, D.C., is staying at Camp 1 and hopes to move up to Camp 2
Saturday.
The day before the snowstorm hit, the team had set up their camp at
23,000 feet. The expedition still must pitch three more camps before
making their actual assault on the peak, which they had hoped to
reach by Oct. 2.
The embassy official said that Arlene Blum, 31, the other woman on
the climb; Dr. Chris Chandler, a physician; Hans Bruyntjes, and Rick
Ridgeway moved up to Camp 2 from Camp 1 when the snow stopped
Thursday.
''Some of them might go up to reoccupy the third camp,'' the
official said.
0105aED 09-18
***************
a226 1119 18 Sep 76
AM-Nanda Devi, 270
NEW DELHI, India (AP) - Nanda Devi Unsoeld has been buried on the
Himalayan peak for which she was named.
In the tradition of mountaineering, the remains of the 22-year-coed
from Olympia, Wash., are being left behind on Nanda Devi Peak
following her death last week of acute high altitude sickness.
''It was the wish of her father that she be buried there,'' said a
spokesman for the Indian Mountaineering Foundation.
He said famed mountaineer William F. Unsoeld and other members of an
Indo-American expedition to the 25,645-foot Nanda Devi Peak attended
a memorial service on the slopes of the mountain.
Nanda Devi died at an altitude of 24,000 feet on Sept. 8, a week
after some members of the expedition reached the summit through the
previously unconquered North Ridge route.
The Indian Mountaineering Foundation said it did not yet have the
identiies of the 12 members of the expedition who reached the summit.
Unsoeld was a member of the American xpedition that in 1963 reached
the top of Mt. Everest, at 29,028 feet the world's tallest peak.
As a student touring India in 1948, Unsoeld was so impressed with
the beauty of Nanda Devi Peak that he promised to name his first
daughter after it.
The daughter was born in 1954, and she was named Nanda Devi.
''I feel a very close relationship with Nanda Devi,'' she said in
New Delhi in July shortly before leaving for the peak. ''I can't
describe it, but there is something within me about this mountain ever
since I was born.''
1418pED 09-18
***************
a225 1108 20 Sep 76
AM-Nanda Devi, Bjt, 2 Takes, 440-770
By MYRON L. BELKIND
Associated Press Writer
NEW DELHI, India (AP) - ''I am going to die.''
These were the last words of 22-year-old American mountaineer Nanda
Devi Unsoeld before she died on the Himalayan peak for which she was
named, her father said Monday.
''She was stricken suddenly, without warning,'' said William F.
Unsoeld, himself a life-long mountaineer who conquered Mt. Everest,
the world's tallest peak, with an American expedition in 1963.
Recalling his daughter's last moments 24,000 feet up Nanda Devi peak
on the Indo-Tibetan border Sept. 8, Unsoeld said in an interview:
''In a matter of moments she became unconscious. We tried mouth to
mouth resuscitation, other emergency methods. But there was no
response.
''Within 15 minutes, her lips were cold and we knew life had
departed. We made exhortations begging her not to leave. We continued
resuscitation for 15 more minutes. But there was no response from her
pupils, and we knew we had lost her.''
Her death ended the Indo-American expedition which Miss Unsoeld had
first conceived two years ago, and which her father had organized,
just a few hours climb and less than 2,000 feet from the 25,645-foot
summit.
With Unsoeld at the expedition's fourth high altitude camp when his
daughter died were two other climbers, Andy Harvard of Hampden,
Conn., and Peter Lev of Wilson, Wyoming.
The four had hoped to reach the summit through the treacherous north
ridge route first conquered on Sept. 1 by three other members of the
expedition, Louis Reichardt of Boston, Mass., and John Roskelley and
Dr. James States, both of Spokane, Washington.
The expedition was to be the fulfillment of a life-long dream for
Unsoeld, who first saw Nanda Devi peak while touring India in 1949.
''I was so struck by its beauty that I realized I needed to get
married to have a daughter that I hoped would be beautiful enough to
name after Nanda Devi,'' said Unsoeld, 50, now a member of the faculty
at Evergreen State College in Olympia, Wash.
Unsoeld married in 1951, and Nanda Devi, the second of four
children, was born in 1954.
She began mountain climbing when she was 14 and her dream, like that
of her father, was to reach the summit of Nanda Devi peak.
Together with Harvard and Lev she reached the 24,000-foot last camp
on Sept. 3 and her father joined the group Sept. 6, a day before the
scheduled assault on the summit.
''She was enormously happy to see me, since we had counted on
climbing together,'' Unsoeld said.
''We had prepared to go to the summit on Sept. 7 but the weather was
bad and instead we spent the day trying to hydrate ourselves, adding
cocoa and tea to snow that we melted on a small gas stove.
More
1409pED 09-20
- - - - - -
a226 1110 20 Sep 76
AM-Nanda Devi, Bjt, Correction, a225, 40
NEW DELHI to correct town from Hampden to Hamden, sub following for
7th graf:
With Unsoeld at the expedition's fourth high altitude camp when his
daughter died were two other climbers, Andy Harvard of Hamden, Conn.,
and Peter Lev of Wilson, Wyoming.
The four, 8th graf.
1410pED 09-20
***************
a065 0404 20 Sep 76
PM-Everest, 190
KATMANDU, Nepal (AP) - Arlene Blum of Menlo Park, Cal., one of the
two women members of the American Bicentennial Everest Expedition, is
ill on the world's highest mountain, a Nepalese liaison officer with
the expedition reported today.
The radio message to the Foreign Ministry said the 31-year-old
biochemist became ill at the expedition's Camp Two, at 21,000 feet,
and ''was trying to descend down to base camp,'' which is at 17,000
feet.
The message did not say what Miss Blum's illness was.
A Foreign Ministry spokesman said he heard a member of the CBS
television crew with the expedition, Peter White, became ill at Camp
One, which is at 19,400 feet, and was also on his way to the base
camp.
An official at the U.S. Embassy said he talked by radio Sunday with
the base camp and that a member of the expedition told him White
''was not feeling well. But he did not tell me about Miss Blum.''
Other members of the expedition were reported trying to make their
way along the face of Mt. Lhotse to the South Col, the takeoff point
for the final assault on the 29,028-foot summit of Everest.
0704aED 09-20
- - - - - -
a096 0659 20 Sep 76
PM-Everest, 1st Ld, a065, 240
By BIAYA GURUACHARYA
Associated Press Writer
KATMANDU, Nepal (AP) - Arlene Blum of Menlo Park, Calif., one of the
two women members of the American Bicentennial Everest Expedition, is
ill on the world's highest mountain, a Nepalese liaison officer with
the expedition reported today.
At the same time, U.S. Embassy officials said four other members of
the expedition had reestablished Camp Three at 23,000 feet and had
set out to pitch the fourth camp. The third camp on the Lhotse face
was wrecked in a heavy snowstorm and blizzard Sept. 11-16.
The radio message to the Foreign Ministry about Miss Blum said the
31-year-old biochemist became ill at Camp Two, at 21,000 feet, and
''was trying to descend down to base camp,'' which is at 17,000 feet.
The message did not say what her illness was.
Another woman mountain climber, 22-year-old Nanda Devi Unsoeld of
Olympia, Wash., died last week of what was described as ''acute high
altitude sickness'' while trying to climb the Himalayan peak for which
she was named 440 miles northwest of Everest.
Miss Unsoeld's father, Willam F. Unsoeld, was leading an expedition
to the 25,645-foot Nanda Devi peak by a new route over its northwest
face. Unsoeld in 1963 became one of the first two Americans to climb
Everest.
The American Embassy officials said Everest Expedition members Dr.
Chris Chandler, 27, Hans Bruyntjes, 28, Rick Ridgeway, 26, and Joseph
Reinhart, 32, set up new tents Sunday to replace the damaged tents at
Camp Three. They said the fourth camp is to be pitched at about
25,000 feet.
A Foreign 4th graf
0959aED 09-20
- - - - - -
a101 0722 20 Sep 76
PM-Everest, 2nd Ld, a096-a065, 120
By BIAYA GURUACHARYA
Associated Press Writer
KATMANDU, Nepal (AP) - Arlene Blum of Menlo Park, Calif., one of the
two women members of the American Bicentennial Everest Expedition, is
ill with dysentery on the world's highest mountain, a Nepalese
Foreign Ministry spokesman reported today.
At the same time, U.S. Embassy officials said four other members of
the expedition had reestablished Camp Three at 23,000 feet and had
set out to pitch the fourth camp. The third camp on the Lhotse face
was wrecked in a snowstorm and blizzard Sept. 11-16.
A radio message to the Foreign Ministry about Miss Blum said the
31-year-old biochemist became ill at Camp Two, at 21,000 feet. The
ministry spokesman first said she was trying to descend to base camp
at 17,000 feet but later said her condition was not serious and she
was still at the second camp.
Another woman 4th graf
1022aED 09-20
***************
a076 0604 22 Sep 76
PM-Everest, 220
By BINAYA GURUACHARYA
KATMANDU, Nepal (AP) - Climber Arlene Blum has recovered completely
from the dysentery she suffered at 21,000-foot Camp 2 on Mt. Everest,
a U.S. Embassy official said today.
''Arlene's problem seems to have gone away,'' the official said,
adding that she went up to Camp 3 at 23,000 feet Tuesday and returned
to Camp 2 in the afternoon.
The 31-year-old biochemist from Menlo Park, Calif., was accompanied
by the leader of the 12-member American Bicentennial Everest
Expedition, Phil Trimble, 38, of Washington, D.C., on the trip to Camp
3.
Meanwhile, another woman member of the expedition, Mrs. Barbara
Roach, 32, of Boulder, Colo., and her husband, Gerard, 33, were
preparing to start the climb from base camp. Scheduled to leave them
were Frank Morgan, 38, and Dr. Dee Crouch, 33.
CBS cameraman Peter White, 40, of Santa Monica, Calif., who was
brought down to base camp Monday from Camp One at 19,400 feet
suffering from altitude sickness, ''looked good now,'' the base camp
reported.
''Everybody was healthy and happy,'' Dan Emmett, 36, of Beverly
Hills, Calif., said by radiotelephone.
The weather has improved on the 29,028-foot Everest and ''we had the
nicest day we ever had here'' Tuesday, Emmett said.
0905aED 09-22
***************
n828 0537 24 Sep 76
Attention: Movie, entertainment editors
Following is a once-a-week column on brief reviews of movies in
general national release - called ''Film Clips.''
By ROGER EBERT
(c) 1976 Chicago Sun-Times (Transmitted Sept. 24)
''The Bongo Long Traveling All-Stars and Motor Kings.'' Entertaining
colorful, nostolgic comedy about the black pro baseball leagues. Billy
Dee Williams leads a revolt, and James Earl Jones and
Richard Pryor join his All-Stars. But the film, fun on the
surface, is recultant to deal with deeper feelings. Pg. 2 1/2 stars.
XXX
''Dairy of Forbidden Dreams.'' Only a good director could have made
a film this bad, and Roman Polanski has lowered himself to the
occasion. Marcello Mastroianni is among the victims.
R. 1/2 star.
XXX
''Futureworld''. A bird's-eye view of the future, with Peter
Fonda and Blythe Danner battling robots. PG. 1 star.
XXX
''Harry and Walter Go to New York.'' James Caan and
Elliott Gould swipe the blueprints from Michael Caine, and then
it's a race between rival gangs to rob the bank vault. A classy
comedy, set in 1890, funny but not hilarious. PG. 2 1/2 stars.
XXX
''The Man Who Skied Down Everest.'' Visually stunning, and
a technical triumph - the first film shot at altitudes up to 27,000
feet. But the film raises intriguing questions about the cast
and effort involved to allow one man four minutes of terrifying
adventure. 1976 Oscar winner, best documentary. G. 3 stars.
XXX
''The Man Who Fell to Earth.'' David Bowie plays a visitor from
outer space who comes to Earth on a rescue mission and is defeated by
motel maids and gin and tonic, as so many have been before him.
Nicholas Roeg's film is occasionally visually brilliant, usually
bewildering. R. 2 1/2 stars.
XXX
''Obsession.'' Cliff Robertson loses his wife and daughter in an
accident - and then seems to meet his wife again, 18 years later.
Brian De Palme's movie is an unabashed romantic melodrama,
overwrought and inspired. PG. 3 stars.
XXX
''The Omen.'' The summer's big money-winner has Gregory Peck and Lee
Remick on one side and the devil on the other. R. 2 stars.
XXX
''Swashbuckler.'' Robert Shaw, James Earl Jones and a
ferocioius supporting cast in a spirited pirate
movie in the traditional vain. PG. 3 stars.
XXX
''Seven Beauties.'' Lina Wertmuller, the most controversial
new director of the year, presents a disturbing film about the
concentration camps. All more disturbing because of her gallows
humor approach. Yet the film's a bothersome. haunting success.
R. 4 stars.
XXX
''The Shootist.'' One of John Wayne's best and most
moving performances, as an aging gunfighter
told he has only weeks to live. with James Stewart
as the doctor and Lauren Bacall as the rooming house
operator. The ending is contrived; the rest is gentle and
touching. PG. 3 1/2 stars.
XXX
Sparkle.'' The rise and fall of a pop trio not unlike the
Supremes. PG. 2 stars.
XXX
''Silent Movie.'' You've heard that old cliche,
a ''laff riot''? This is what they were talking about.
Brooks teams with Dom DeLuise, Marty Feldman, Sid Ceasar and
some surprise guests in a very funny, vary noisy Hollywood
comedy. PG. 4 stars.
XXX
''Survive.'' Hollywood took an earnest, rather dumb Mexican film
and redubbed, edited and advertised it into a box office
bonanza. But you go away hungry. R. one star.
XXX
''To the Devil...a Daughter.'' Demonic characters krantically
search for each other in frenzied plot. Richard Widmark
and Christopher Lee. R. one star.
en (endit EBERT) 9-24
cd
...
(End missing.)
**********
a002 0235 26 Sep 76
BC-Everest, 210
KATMANDU, Nepal (AP) - Five Sherpa guides of the American
Bicentennial Everest Expedition set up Camp 4 Saturday at 24,500 feet,
just 4,528 feet below the peak of the world's highest mountain, the
Nepal Foreign Ministry said.
The ministry, which has been receiving radio reports from the
expedition's base camp, said none of the 12 American climbers in the
group had reached the new camp by Sunday morning.
After spending the night at Camp 4, the Sherpas - Ang Phurba Pasang
Norbu, Ang Nima, Katetsering and Lhakpa Gyaltzen - started to make a
trail leading toward the South Col, the jumping-off point for the
final days of the assault on Mt. Everest's summit, the ministry said.
The expedition's schedule calls for them to establish two more camps
on the way to the summit. Because of bad weather, the climbers are
about 10 days behind their original tentative timetable, and it is now
believed the earliest they can reach the summit is Oct. 10.
The weather on the mountain Sunday was described as ''fine and
clear.'' Strong winds had prevented the guides from setting up the
fourth camp for two days, the ministry said.
The American climbers, including two women, are led by Phil Trimble,
38, of Washington, D.C.
They were all said to be in good physical condition, the ministry
reported.
0535aED 09-26
**********
a055 0330 27 Sep 76
PM-Everest, 290
By JURATE KAZICKAS
Associated Press Writer
EVEREST BASE CAMP, Nepal (AP) - The leader of the American
Bicentennial Everest Expedition has selected two teams of five
climbers each to try for the mountain's 29,028-foot summit.
One member could be the first American woman to scale the world's
highest peak.
Expedition chief Phil Trimble said Sunday that the first group to
attempt the summit climb would consist of five men - Gerry Roach, Dr.
Dee Crouch, Dan Emmett, Bob Cormack and Sherpa guide Ang Phurpa.
In the second team would be Chris Chandler, Rick Ridgeway, Frank
Morgan, Hans Burynttjes and Arlene Blum.
Weather permitting, summit attempts are scheduled for Oct. 7 and 9.
The Nepalese Foreign Ministry reported in the capital of Katmandu
today that light snow began falling on Mt. Everest Sunday night.
Trimble, in the tradition of self-sacrificing expedition leaders,
has listed himself as an alternate for either team.
The second woman on the 12-member expedition, Roach's wife, Barbara,
has had some difficulty with the altitude. If she feels well enough,
however, she will replace Cormack on the first team, Trimble said.
''I tried to be as fair as possible, but any selection is inevitably
unfair to somebody,'' he added. ''Either team could go first, or is
not better than the other. I tried to make them strong in balance so
that independently either could make the summit.''
Sherpas led by Ang Phurpa and not using oxygen will make the trail
to camp 5 on the South Col, the 26,200-foot jumping-off point for the
summit. Meanwhile, the climbers, except for Trimble and Joe Reinhard,
advance base manager, will return to the base camp to rest up for the
summit push.
The farthest the expedition had reached by the weekend was camp 4 at
24,50 feet.
0631aED 09-27
**********
n853 0337 01 Oct 76
Attention: Movie, entertainment editors
Following is a once-a-week column of brief reviews of
movies in general national release - called ''Film Clips.''
By ROGER EBERT (2d story)
(c) 1976 Chicago Sun-Times (Oct. 1)
''Bananas.'' Woody Allen and Louise (Mary Hartman) Lasser
get entangled in the politics of a banana republic after
Howard Cosell does a play-by-play on an assassination attempt.
PG. 3 stars.
xxx
''The Bingo Long Traveling All-Stars and Motor Kings.''
Entertaining, colorful, nostalgic comedy about the black pro
baseball leagues. Billy Dee Williams leads a revolt, and
James Earl Jones and Richard Pryor join his All-Stars. But
the film, fun on the surface, is reluctant to deal with
deeper feelings. PG. 2 1/2 stars.
xxx
''Let's Talk About men.'' Lina Wertmuller's first film - and
it shows. A 1965 episodic sex farce about varieties of war,
between men and women. PG. 2 stars.
xxx
''The Magic Flute.'' Ingmar Bergman's most joyous film: A
lighthearted version of the Mozart opera, set in an ancient
Stockholm theater. G. 4 stars.
xxx
''The Man Who Skied Down Everest.'' Visually stunning,
and a technical triumph - the first film shot at altitudes up
to 27,000 feet. But the film raises intriguing questions
about the cost and effort involved to allow one man four
minutes of terrifying adventure. 1976 Oscar winner, best
documentary. G. 3 stars.
xxx
''The Man Who Fell to Earth.'' David Bowie plays a visitor
from outer space who comes to Earth on a rescue mission and
is defeated by motel maids and gin and tonic, as so many have
been before him. Nicholas Roeg's film is occasionally
visually brilliant, usually bewildering. R. 2 1/2 stars.
xxx
''Midway.'' A big, dull, plodding version of the great
naval battle, with special effects that are singularly
unconvincing. PG. 2 stars.
xxx
''Sailor Who Fell from Grace with the Sea.'' Kris Kristofferson
and Sarah Miles in a steamy British version of a macabre
Japanese love story. R. 2 1/2 stars.
xxx
''Farewell, My Lovely.'' Robert Mitchum stars in a modern
classic private eye flick. 4 stars.
xxx
''The Omen.'' The summer's big money-winner has Gregory
Peck and Lee Remick on one side and the devil on the other.
A. 2 1/2 stars.
xxx
''The Shootist.'' One of John Wayne's best and most
moving performances, as an aging gunfighter told he has
only weeks to live. With James Stewart as the doctor and
Lauren Bacall as the rooming house operator. The ending
is contrived, the rest is gentle and touching.
PG. 3 1/2 stars.
xxx
''Silent Movie.'' You've heard that old cliche, a ''laff
riot''? this is what they were talking about. Brooks teams
with Dom DeLuise, Marty Feldman, Sid Caesar and some
surprise guests in a very funny, very noisy Hollywood
comedy. PG. 4 stars.
xxx
''Survive.'' Hollywood took an earnest, rather dumb
Mexican film and redubbed, edited and advertised it
into a box office bonanza. But you'll go away hungry.
R. One star.
xxx
''The Tenant.'' Roman Polanski's horror drama about how a shy
tenant (himself) moves into a rooming house filled with the
strangest people. The situation would be scary if he weren't the
stragest of all. R. One star.
xxx
''To the Devil . . . a Daughter.'' Demonic characters,
frantically search for each other in frenzied plot.
Richard Widmark and Christopher Lee. R. One star.
rr (endit Ebert, 2d story) 10-1
cd
...
(End missing.)
**********
a201 0933 01 Oct 76
AM-News Digest,
AP NEWS DIGEST
Saturday AMs
Here are the top stories in sight for AMs at this hour. The General
Desk supervisor is G.G. LaBelle. He can be reached at 212 262-6093 if
you have an urgent question about the spot news report.
POLITICS
UNDATED - Jimmy Carter celebrates his 52nd birthday saying voter
apathy could be fatal to his campaign. And a deputy attorney general
says he has no knowledge that President Ford personally is the target
of allegations of impropriety in the handling of his congressional
campaign funds. Political Rdp, developing. Wirephoto covering.
With separates on Ford, Carter and Dole. Mondale has no public
schedule today
SWINE FLU
UNDATED - The mayor of Indianapolis and hundreds of ''high-risk''
persons roll up their sleeves as the nationwide swine flu immunization
program begins on schedule, at least in two cities. New material,
developing. Wirephoto NA1, others upcoming.
With the Q and A sidebar from New York and Indianapolis separate.
NATIONAL
NEW YORK - The NAACP calls a news conference as sources in
Washington report that the AFL-CIO will provide the money the civil
rights group needs to post a $1.56 million bond to appeal a
Mississippi court ruling. New material, developing.
SACRAMENTO, Calif. - As of the first of the year, Californians will
be able to sign so-called ''living wills'' to guarantee that
sophisticated equipment will not be used to keep them alive if they
are terminally ill. New material.
With separate from New Jersey on present condition of Karen Anne
Quinlan, whose illness prompted the California law.
WASHINGTON
Almost 20 per cent of American cities provide better education,
greater employment opportunities, higher-paying jobs and less-crowded
housing than their suburbs, Congress is told. New, should stand.
Senate investigators have been unable to confirm reports from two
CIA officers that the spy agency contacted Lee Harvey Oswald before
that fateful November day when President John F. Kennedy was
assassinated. New material, should stand.
A federal Medicaid antifraud specialist faces possible
contempt-of-Congress citations for refusing to appear before a Senate
panel investigating whether he received thousands of dollars from
companies hoping to win government contracts. New material.
INTERNATIONAL
BEIRUT, Lebanon - Syrian tanks close in on two Palestinian
strongholds in their drive to force guerrillas out of the Lebanese
war. Developing.
UMTALI, Rhodesia - Roman Catholic Bishop Donald Lamont gets 10 years
in prison for failing to report visits by black guerrillas to a
Catholic mission. The Vatican reacts sharply. New material. Wirephoto
SAL1.
BONN, West Germany - After a campaign that emphasized personality
over policy, polls show Chancellor Helmut Schmidt's coalition a slight
favorite to win West Germany's parliamentary election Sunday. New
material, should stand.
EVEREST BASE CAMP - A woman who has a chance to become the first
American female on top of Mt. Everest says she'd prefer being the
first wife to stand with her husband on the summit. New, by Jurate
Kazickas. With Wirephoto.
CONSUMER
UNDATED - Consumers looking for bargains at the supermarket during
September had to search carefully. An Associated Press marketbasket
survey showed higher costs for meat, milk and some nonfood items. Will
stand. Wirephoto Chart NY19.
With Consumer Scorecard, will stand, by Louise Cook.
THE PORRIDGE CRISIS
LONDON - Should you stand up or sit down when eating your porridge?
The question divides Britons in a debate raging in the press. New.
1236pED 10-01
**********
a216 1113 01 Oct 76
AM-Everest, Bjt, 490
Following is a delayed dispatch from the American Everest Expedition.
By JURATE KAZICKAS
Associated Press Writer
EVEREST BASE CAMP (AP) - A woman who has a chance of becoming the
first American female on top of Mt. Everest would prefer the
distinction of being the first wife to stand next to her husband on
the mountaintop.
''There's no way I would climb that mountain without Gerry. I just
don't have that desire for the top without him,'' said Barbara Roach,
who with her husband is a member of the American Bicentennial Everest
Expedition, now moving toward the top of the world's highest peak.
In contrast to Arlene Blum, the other woman climber in the 12-member
expedition, Mrs. Roach has often said she cares more that her husband
make it to the top.
Ms. Blum, who prefers that designation, has made clear she wants to
make it to the top but says she doesn't care which woman is first.
She became very ill one night from a reaction to medication she was
taking for amoebic dysentery and is not completely recovered.
(The expedition is making steady progress toward the 29,028-foot
summit. Four camps have been set up above Base Camp, and five Sherpa
guides were expected to make a route to the fifth Friday or Saturday.
Camp 5, on the South Col at 26,200 feet, will be the jumping-off
point for the summit.
(''All the route-making jobs have already been done,'' expedition
member Dan Emmett said Friday. With favorable weather conditions,
summit attempts could begin next week.)
Mrs. Roach, a 32-year-old dance teacher and performer from Boulder,
Colo., said the most important thing in her life is her husband.
''Everest has been his lifelong dream. And I want to do all that I can
to help him achieve that dream.
''As for me, you have to have that gut level desire, really want to
get to the top. I don't know if I have that yet. If I don't make it,
I'll survive very easily.''
She recently returned to base camp after nearly two weeks' absence
for treatment of a tooth ache and sore throat, and she has been having
difficulty becoming accustomed to the high altitude again.
During that time, Gerry, 33, was busy putting in routes between
camps high on the mountain. Last week, he came down to spend a few
days of rest at base camp and on Sept. 22, the Roaches and several
other climbers moved up the mountain.
''He calls the shots. I just follow,'' said Mrs. Roach, who has been
climbing with her husband for 10 years.
Roach is conceded by almost all expedition members to be the
strongest climber and the man most hungry for the summit.
''It's harder I think being in the first summit team since you have
to break trail,'' said Roach. ''I just want to get up there fast. I'd
rather not go to the summit than be with someone who goes slowly.''
He also says he will do ''whatever is necessary to the limits of my
physical ability to give her a better chance for the summit.''
''He'd only do that if it didn't hurt his own chances to get to the
top,'' said a knowing Mrs. Roach.
The 5-foot-2 Mrs. Roach is a capable climber. She saved her 6-foot-2
husband's life by pulling him out of a crevasse in Canada in 1973.
The Roaches are among five climbers named by expedition leader Phil
Trimble to the first team to try for the summit, though Trimble has
indicated the makeup of the teams can change depending on weather,
climbers' health and who has had sufficient rest.
1416pED 10-01
**********
n426 0331 04 Oct 76
Sports column For Izenberg subscribers only
BY JERRY IZENBERG (Oct. 4)
NEW YORK - All through his tenure as a major league
baseball owner, Charles O. Finley has been plagued by a
problem of monumental dimensions. It is a problem that nobody
has come close to eliminating.
The problem is named Charles O. Finley.
You might wonder - if you still live in that fantasy land
where people believe that the men who own baseball teams measure
success or failure by the number of times their team
wins - how a man whose team won five straight divisional
titles and three World Series championships during that span, could
be doing something wrong. Admittedly, it ain't easy.
The turth is, of course, that baseball is not much different
from the used car business, the retail furniture business or
the garment center. The truth is a guy in Detroit will
buy a Fiat or a Datsun or a Renault instead of a Ford or
a Chevrolet or a Plymouth if he thinks he's better off. The fact
that those other three cars are manufactured in his city and state
means nothing. Conversely, there is no reason people should go
to a baseball park to see a lously team just because it's there.
A ball game, after all, is not Mt. Everest.
To understand what Charlie O. Finley has done to Charles
O. Finley (and he couldn't have picked a better guy to
hurt for a change) you have to go back to 1960 and the enormous
chunk of money he laid on a probate court in Chicago as the
winning bid for controlling interest in the Kansas City Athletics.
He came to Kansas City the following spring dripping
all the honey-coated promises new (and often old) ownership
always drips.
One of the most difficult things to obtain during that era was
a major league baseball team. Having obtained the team, it took
Charles O. less than two years to start thinking about where
he wanted to move it.
While he sought to negotiate a new stadium lease and even as he
spoke of his devotion to Kansas City, Charles O. was
down in Dallas on two separate occasions trying to steal a new
ball park and a new city. He also contacted Atlanta and
San Diego. In 1963, he tried to move the team to Oakland, Calif.
He was denied permission - not through any moral conviction
that baseball hold about anything but because Horace
Stoneham (who has gone the way he should have gone after the
rape of New York) reminded the brothers that Walter O'Malley had
promised him San Francisco, the adjacent world and the waters of
San Francisco Bay.
hb (more) 10-4
nhcd
...
(End missing.)
**********
a091 0826 07 Oct 76
PM-Everest, 220
KATMANDU, Nepal (AP) - Three climbers of the American Bicentennial
Everest Expedition set up Camp 6 today 1,528 feet below the summit of
Mt. Everest and planned to make the final assault Friday on the
world's tallest peak.
Dr. Chris Chandler, 28, a physician from Vashon, Wash., Robert
Cormack, 30, of Boulder, Colo., and Sherpa guide Ang Phurba climbed
more than five hours and 1,300 vertical feet to the final camp, where
they will spend the night before attacking the 29,028-foot summit,
the Nepalese Foreign Ministry said.
The ministry is in touch with the expedition base camp by radio.
The ministry said eight Sherpas and CBS televison cameraman Mike
Hoover, 33, of Jackson, Wyo., apparently were still at Camp 5. The
Sherpas were to carry equipment up to Camp 6 and Hoover was to film
the climb as far as Camp 6.
Weather conditions appeared favorable - it was clear with little
wind.
Earlier Associated Press Writer Jurate Kazickas reported from the
base camp that if all goes as scheduled Chandler, Cormack and Phurba
will begin their day Friday by waking at 3 a.m.
They will melt snow to make soup and hot chocolate, then a few hours
later strap on their 50-pound packs and head for the summit.
At Camp 5, three more climbers - Gerry Roach, 33, of Boulder; Rick
Ridgeway, of Malibu, Calif., and Hans Brujntes, 26, of Utrecht, the
Netherlands - by then will be getting ready for their chance at the
summit two days later.
1126aED 10-07
**********
a063 0445 08 Oct 76
PM-Everest Woman, 350
By JURATE KAZICKAS
Associated Press Writer
EVEREST BASE CAMP, Nepal (AP) - ''If climbing were as important to
me as dancing, I could have done it,'' says Barbara Roach, one of the
two female members of the American Bicentennial Everest Expedition.
But now she's resigned to staying behind while her husband, Gerry,
joins five other expedition members in attempting to reach the summit
of the world's tallest mountain.
An initial three-person team was expected to try for the summit
today, while Roach was part of a second team slated to undertake the
final stretch of the climb on Saturday.
''Perhaps if I can push I shall go farther, but the desire is not
clear,'' said Mrs. Roach, a modern dance teacher from Boulder, Colo.,
as she sat on the rocks at base camp.
If she had reached the 29,028-foot summit, she would have been the
first American women to get to the peak of Everest, and the couple
would have been the first husband and wife to make it to the top.
Hiking up to the 21,300-foot high advance base two weeks ago, Mrs.
Roach soon began to feel the effects of the altitude.
She realized that her balance was off in a near-crisis when trying
to walk across a swaying ladder bridge over a huge crevasse with a
30-pound pack on her back.
Every day she was at the advance base, Mrs. Roach said she felt
nauseous, had terrible headaches and lost her appetite.
Mrs. Roach, 32, noted that ''I do feel myself getting weaker and
weaker. And if you are not strong enough with at least some reserve,
climbing the mountain is suicidal and dangerous to others.''
She has repeatedly said she cares more for her husband's success on
the mountain then her own.
''It is his dream, his mountain. I know I can't keep up his pace and
I don't want to slow him down,'' Mrs. Roach said. ''I would have
liked to be able to go to the top with Gerry, but it is more important
to me that he make it.''
Chances also were slim that the expedition's second woman, Arlene
Blum, would have an opportunity to try for the summit. She was not
selected for one of the two summit teams and it is doubtful there will
be a third.
0745aED 10-08
**********
n834 0452 08 Oct 76
Attention: Movie, entertainment editors.
Following is a once-a-week column of brief reviews of movies
in general national release - called ''Film clips.''
By ROGER EBERT
(c) 1976 Chicago Sun-Times (Oct. 8)
''Burnt Offerings.'' Karen Black and Oliver Reed (and their aunt,
Bette Davis) move into a haunted house, and take altogether too
long to decide they should move out again. PG. 1 1/2 stars.
XXX
''Let's Talk about Men.'' Lina Wertmuller's first film - and it
shows. A 1965 episodic sex farce about varieties of war between men
and women. PG. 2 stars.
XXX
''The Man Who Skied Down Everest.'' Visually stunning and a
technical triumph - the first film shot at altitudes up to
27,000 feet. But the film raises intriguing questions about
the cost and effort involved to allow one man four minutes
of terrifying adventure. 1976 Oscar winner, best
documentary. G. 3 stars.
XXXX
''The Naughty Victorian.'' Not bound to please X. one star.
XXX
Norman...Is That You?'' Redd Foxx has a bad week. His wife
runs off to Mexico with his brother, and he discovers his
son is gay. The movie's forced and obvious, but
audiences seem to love it. PG. 2 stars.
XXX
''The Shootist.'' One of John Wayne's best and most moving
performances, as an aging gunfighter told he was only
weeks to love. With James Stewart as the doctor and Lauren
Bacall as the rooming house operator. The ending is contrived,
the rest is gentle and touching. PG. 3 1/2 stars.
XXX
''The Tenant.'' Roman Polanski's horror drama about how a
shy tenant (himself) moves into a rooming house filled
with the strangest people. The situation would be scary if he
weren't the strangest of all. R. One star.
XXX
''To the Devil...a Daughter.'' Demonic characters
frantically search for each other in frenzied plot. Richard
Widmark and Cpristopher Lee. R. One star.
XXX
''Woodstock.'' An inspired combination of great music and a great
documentary. R. 4 stars.
en (endit EBERT) 10-8
cd
...
(End missing.)
**********
a068 0523 08 Oct 76
PM-Late Advisory,
We expect Labor Department release of the September unemployment
report, the last before election day, at 10 a.m. EDT. The story will
be filed as a lead to the Economic Rdp Bjt, a008.
Upcoming:
Two Americans and a Sherpa guide launch a final assault on the
summit of Mt. Everest.
The General Desk supervisor is Terry Ryan. He can be reached at 212
262-6093 if you have an urgent question about the spot news report.
The AP
0823aED 10-08
**********
a075 0627 08 Oct 76
PM-Everest Summit, 140
URGENT
KATMANDU, Nepal (AP) - Two American climbers and their Sherpa guide
set out today on the final leg of their attempt to conquer Mt.
Everest, the U.S. Embassy reported.
The Foreign Ministry said that at 12:45 p.m. local time (3:05 a.m.
EDT) two members of the team crossed the 28,750-foot-high South
Summit, 278 vertical feet below the peak of the world's tallest
mountain.
Then they were covered by a thick cloud, and people below following
their progress with binoculars could no longer track them, the
ministry said.
The assault team of the American Bicentennial Everest Expedition
consisted of Dr. Chris Chandler, 28, a physician from Vashon, Wash.;
Bob Cormack, 30, a glider pilot from Boulder, Colo., and guide Ang
Phurba, 27.
More
0927aED 10-08
**********
a076 0647 08 Oct 76
PM-Everest, 1st Add, a075, 450
KATMANDU, Nepal: Phurba, 27.
They would be the second American team to scale the 29,028-foot
peak. The other successful American expedition was in 1963. A 1971
American attempt failed. Sir Edmund Hillary of New Zealand and Sherpa
guide Tenzing Norgay were the first to conquer Everest, in 1953.
It appeared that neither Barbara Roach nor Arlene Blum, who had
hoped to become the first American women to scale Mt. Everest, would
have a chance at the summit. A Japanese, Junko Tabei, is the only
woman to have reached the summit from the Nepal side.
The assault team's schedule had called for them to awake at 3 a.m.
in their tents at 27,500-foot-high Camp 6, melt snow for a breakfast
of soup and hot chocolate, then a few hours later strap their 50-pound
packs to their backs and begin the climb to the 29,028-foot summit.
The embassy, in radio contact with expedition member Dan Emmett at
the 12-member group's base camp, said the team left at 7:30 a.m.,
about one hour later than planned. Emmett gave no reason for the
delay.
He said the weather was clear and sunny - ''One of the best days we
have (had), but we were a bit worried about the wind.''
Mike Hoover, a CBS television cameraman following the climb, radioed
to the base camp from the South Col, at 26,200 feet, on Thursday that
they were having ''heavy winds . . . up to 50 miles an hour.''
Hoover had been scheduled to accompany the summit team up to Camp 6,
but an American Embassy official said the expedition members said
they did not have enough oxygen.
A second summit team - Gerry Roach, 33, of Boulder, Colo., Rick
Ridgeway, 27, of Malibu, Calif., and Hans Bruyntjes, 29, of the
Netherlands - was still in Camp 4 at 24,500 feet, the embassy official
said.
The second team was scheduled go up to the South Col today ''but
they did not move, primarily because the Sherpas, who assisted the
first summit team in establishing Camp 6, have been exhausted. So the
second summit team did not have the Sherpa support,'' the official
said.
According to available information here, the second summit bid will
now take place either Monday or Tuesday, instead of Sunday, as
originally planned.
The ''ABEE,'' as its members called it, began its 140-mile hike to
Everest from Katmandu Aug. 3. A six-day snowstorm ruined their
original timetable, which called for a final assault between Sept. 30
and Oct. 2.
At the base camp, expedition member Frank Morgan said by radio that
''it has been noticeably cold on the mountain. The thermometer
recorded 15 to 20 degrees below zero Fahrenheit at night in Camp 2, at
21,000 feet.''
Only one other American expedition has made it to Everest's summit,
in 1963. A 1971 American attempt failed.
0947aED 10-08
**********
a085 0734 08 Oct 76
PM-Everest, 2nd Ld, a075, 170
Eds: The following leads notes that guide is no longer with team.
KATMANDU, Nepal (AP) - Two American climbers neared the summit of
Mt. Everest today on the final leg of the U.S. Bicentennial attempt to
conquer the world's tallest mountain, officials reported.
Dr. Chris Chandler of Vashon, Wash., and Bob Cormack of Boulder,
Colo., were inching their way up the final yards toward the
29,028-foot peak without their Sherpa guide, Ang Phurba, who dropped
back because his oxygen cylinder malfunctioned, the Foreign Ministry
here said.
Observers below using binoculars saw Chandler, a 28-year-old
physician, and Cormack, a 30-year-old glider pilot, crossing the
dangerous ''Hillary Step'' just short of the summit at 2:30 p.m. local
time - 5:30 a.m. EDT. Then they were obscured by thick clouds.
The steep pitch, named after Everest's first conqueror, is
considered the last obstacle to the top.
An hour and 45 minutes earlier, they had been spotted at the South
Summit, 278 vertical feet below the peak.
Chandler and Cormack, part of the Amerian Bicentennial Everest
Expedition, would be the second American team to scale the mountain.
The other successful Americn expedition was in 1963. A 1971 American
attempt failed. Sir Edmund Hillary of New Zealand and Sherpa guide
Tenzing Norgay conquered the summit in 1953.
It appeared, 6th graf
1035aED 10-08
**********
a201 0919 08 Oct 76
AM-News Digest,
AP NEWS DIGEST
Saturday AMs
Here are the top stories in sight for AMs at this hour. The General
Desk supervisor is G.G. LaBelle. He can be reached at 212 262-6093 if
you have an urgent question about the spot news report.
THE ECONOMY
WASHINGTON - Unemployment dropped in September for the first time in
four months, but an accompanying drop in total employment and the
number of people looking for work meant the job picture was basically
unchanged. New material, may stand. Wirephoto Chart NY18.
POLITICS
UNDATED - President Ford's renewed pledge to support East European
independence from the Soviet Union hasn't stopped Jimmy Carter from
hammering at the President's statements during the second debate that
some of these nations are autonomous. Developing. With Wirephoto.
With separates on Ford and Carter. Dole and Mondale are in
Washington and will be handled in separates if warranted.
INTERNATIONAL
KATMANDU, Nepal - Two Americans near the summit of Everest in the
U.S. Bicentennial Expedition's attempt to conquer the world's tallest
mountain. Developing. Wirephotos NY17,19.
BEIRUT, Lebanon - Leftist sources say 1,200 Iraqi troops with tanks
and rocket launchers have arrived in Lebanon to reinforce Palestinian
guerrillas in the country's civil war. New.
With separate on the Mexican hurricane.
NATIONAL
MONTGOMERY, Ala. - After living as a fugitive in the North for 30
years, a man believed to be the last surviving member of the
''Scottsboro Boys''- symbols of Southern racial injustice in the
1930's - is seeking a pardon. New material, will stand.
NOME, Alaska - Two weeks before election day, a tightly wrapped
plastic bundle with a red flag on it will plummet to earth on a speck
of American rock within sight of the Soviet Union. Inside will be the
ballots for the residents of Little Diomede Island. New, will stand.
Wirephoto FB1.
CEDAR FALLS, Iowa - The city of Cedar Falls is trying to do away
with an age-old institution: the garbage can. New, will stand.
MEDICINE
NEW YORK - Many people get cancers more than once, and treatment may
sometimes fire up a second cancer. Heredity and the environment play
a role, specialists tell a cancer conference. New, will stand, by AP
Science Editor Alton Blakeslee.
With separate on Hubert Humphrey's cancer surgery.
CONSUMER SCORECARD
UNDATED - Consumers have a friend at the Federal Reserve Board which
has just finished setting up a formal system for handling complaints
on everything from interest rates to mixed-up credit billings.
Consumer Scorecard by Louise Cook, new material, will stand.
PLATO'S TREE MEETS THE CAR AND LOSES
ATHENS, Greece - Plato's olive tree, in whose shade the ancient
Greek philosopher is said to have lectured, lies uprooted and torn,
the victim of a modern-day traffic accident. New, should stand.
1219pED 10-08
**********
a242 1340 08 Oct 76
AM-Everest, Bjt - 2 takes, 500-600
KATMANDU, Nepal (AP) - Dr. Chris Chandler and Bob Cormack neared the
''Top of the World'' Friday on the last leg of their attempt to
become the first Americans in 13 years to reach the summit of Mt.
Everest.
But as they moved toward the 29,028-foot peak, clouds moved in,
obscuring the view of observers below.
''We have every reason to believe they were going on,'' said a
spokesman for the U.S. Embassy, which was in radio contact with the
base camp of the American Bicentennial Everest Expedition.
The 28-year-old physician and the 30-year-old glider pilot, the
expedition's lead climbers, were last spotted after crossing the
dangerous ''Hillary Step'' just short of the 29,028-foot summit at
3:30 p.m. local time (6:30 a.m. EDT) Friday, officials here said.
The Hillary Step, named after Everest's first conquerer, is
considered the last obstacle to the top.
The ''two little figures'' watched through binoculars by observers
at the 19,000-foot level had stopped for about 30 minutes after
crossing the steep pitch, an embassy spokesman said.
''It could have been either for rest or to have a bite before going
up the last crucial stage of the climb,'' he said.
Several hours later the view was still blocked by clouds.
Chandler, of Vashon, Wash., and Cormack, of Boulder, Colo., climbed
the final leg Friday - 1,528 vertical feet from their last camp -
without their Sherpa guide, Ang Phurba, 27, who had to drop back
because of a malfunctioning oxygen cylinder, officials said.
Their oxygen tanks, necessary at that altitude, have twice the
capacity of tanks carried on previous expeditions, the embassy
spokesman said.
On May 1, 1963, James W. Whittaker and Sherpa guide Nawang Gombu
scaled the peak in the only previous successful American expedition.
Sir Edmund Hillary of New Zealand and Sherpa guide Tenzing Norgay were
the first to conquer Everest, in 1953.
Neither of the two women in the Bicentennial expedition, which its
12 members dubbed ''ABEE,'' was included in the two summit-assault
teams.
Barbara Roach and Arlene Blum had hoped to become the first American
women atop Everest. A Japanese and a Chinese woman have accomplished
the feat.
The second summit team - Gerry Roach, 33, of Boulder, Colo., Rick
Ridgeway, 27, of Malibu, Calif., and Hans Bruyntjes, 29, of the
Netherlands - were scheduled to make their try for the peak Monday or
Tuesday.
Chandler and Cormack set out from 27,500-foot-high Camp 6 at 7:30
a.m., about an hour behind schedule. Their plans had called for them
to awake at 3 a.m. in their tents, melt snow for a breakfast of soup
and hot chocolate, then a few hours later strap their 50-pound packs
to their backs and begin the last climb.
The base camp radioed officials here that the weather on Everest was
clear and sunny Friday. ''One of the best days we have (had), but we
were a bit worried about the wind,'' they quoted expedition member
Dan Emmett as saying.
MORE
1641pED 10-08
**********
a248 1411 08 Oct 76
AM-Everest, Bjt - 1st Add, 100
KATMANDU, Nepal: as saying.
Mike Hoover, a CBS television cameraman following the climb, radioed
to the base camp on Thursday from the South Col, at 26,200 feet, that
they were experiencing ''heavy winds . . . up to 50 miles an hour.''
At the base camp, expedition member Frank Morgan said by radio that
''it has been noticeably cold on the mountain. The thermometer
recorded 15 to 20 degrees below zero Fahrenheit at night in Camp 2, at
21,000 feet,'' officials here reported.
The ABEE began its 140-mile hike to Everest from Katmandu on Aug. 3.
A six-day snowstorm ruined their original timetable, which called for
a final assault between Sept. 30 and Oct. 2.
1711pED 10-08
**********
a001 2122 08 Oct 76
PM-News Digest,
AP News Digest
Saturday PMs
Here are the top stories in sight for PMs. The General Desk
supervisor is Mike Silverman (212-262-6093.)
CAMPAIGN '76
Ford Plans Motorcade
LAWTON, Okla. - President Ford schedules a ride through downtown
Dallas - the first such presidential motorcade in that city since the
asassination of John F. Kennedy. New, will be topped.
Carter Steps Up Attack
CLEVELAND - Jimmy Carter sharply escalates criticism aimed at
pressuring President Ford into answering questions at a no-holds
barred ''cross-examination''-style news conference. New material, will
be topped.
With Undated politics roundup and a separate on Ford's two days of
wrestling with Eastern Europe issue.
ASSAULT ON EVEREST: Two Near Summit
KATMANDU, Nepal - Two members of the American Bicentennial Everest
Expedition near the top of the world's highest mountain on the last
leg of their bid to become the first Americans to reach the summit of
Mt. Everest in 13 years. Developing.
Scottsboro Fugitive: Back to Alabama?
NEW YORK - Clarence Norris, one of the eight ''Scottsboro Boys'' of
the 1930s, must decide whether to return to Alabama - and jail - to
seek a pardon, or remain here where he has lived as a fugitive since
1946. New material, will stand.
KKK: ACLU Defends Right to Organize
DENVER - The American Civil Liberties Union says it finds the Ku
Klux Klan ''obnoxious,'' but it is defending the white supremacist
organization against what it calls threats by Denver's district
attorney. New material, will stand.
NUCLEAR WEAPONS
Russians Said Nyet to Treaty
WASHINGTON - President Ford offered to complete a treaty with the
Russians restricting nuclear weapons, but he was turned down,
administration officials say. New material, will stand.
Student Designs Own A-Bomb
PRINCETON, N.J. - A 21-yr-old Princeton University student who
spends his Saturdays dressed in a tiger suit as a mascot at football
games, has designed what he says is his own version of the atomic bomb
- USING INFORMATION GAINED FROM PUBLIC RECORDS. New material, will
stand.
BEVERAGE CONTAINERS: Could Turn into Savings
WASHINGTON - Would you return empty beverage cans and bottles to the
supermarket if they carried a 5-cent deposit? A study says that if
enough Americans did, they would conserve energy, create jobs and save
billions of dollars. New material, will stand.
WOMEN ALCOHOLICS: Staying in the Closet
ROCHESTER, N.Y. - There are an estimated 8,000 female alcoholics in
Monroe County, but a new Salvation Army center is having little
success in attracting them to its free treatment program. New
material, will stand.
AFRICAN DISEASE: At Least 81 Dead
LONDON - Scientists in the United States, Britain and Belgium are
trying to identify a mysterious disease known to have killed at least
81 persons since mid-September in the African nations of Sudan and
Zaire. An AP News Special by James R. Peipert. New, will stand.
U.S.-PANAMA: VERBAL CLASH IN UN
UNITED NATIONS, N.Y. (AP) - An American delegate at the United
Nations strikes back against Panamanian criticism of President Ford,
Jimmy Carter and Secretary of State Henry A. Kissinger. But Panama has
the last word. New, should stand.
0023aED 10-09
**********
a037 0131 09 Oct 76
PM-Everest, Bjt, 360
KATMANDU, Nepal (AP) - Two members of the American Bicentennial
Everest Expedition are on the last leg of their assault on the world's
highest mountain, in a bid to become the first Americans to conquer
the 29,028-foot Mt. Everest in 13 years.
Dr. Chris Chandler and Bob Cormack were last spotted Friday after
crossing the dangerous ''Hillary Step,'' the last big obstacle before
the peak. The two stopped to rest or eat for about 30 minutes after
crossing the steep pitch, then clouds moved in, obscuring the view of
observers below.
Later, communications problems between the United States and
Katmandu delayed further reports.
''We have every reason to believe they were going on,'' a spokesman
for the U.S. Embassy here said Friday. The Embassy is in radio
contact with the expedition's base camp.
Chandler, 28, a physician from Vashon, Wash, and Cormack, 30, of
Boulder, Colo., are the lead climbers of the expedition. They set out
Friday morning from the 27,500-foot Camp 6. The last leg, 1,528
vertical feet from the camp, was made without their Sherpa guide, Ang
Phurba, 27. Phurba had to drop back because of a malfunctioning
oxygen cylinder, officials said.
The only previous successful American Everest expedition was in
1963, when James W. Whittaker and Sherpa guide Nawang Gombu scaled the
peak. Sir Edmund Hillary of New Zealand and Sherpa guide Tenzing
Norgay were the first to conquer the mountain in 1953.
A second summit team was scheduled to try for the peak Monday or
Tuesday. That will consist of Gerry Roach, 33, of Boulder, Colo., Rick
Ridgeway, 27, of Malibu, Calif., and Hans Bruyntjes, 29, of The
Netherlands.
Neither of the two women in the expedition, Barbara Roach and Arlene
Blum, was included in the assault teams. They had hoped to become the
first American women to climb the mountain. A Japanese and a Chinese
woman have made it to the top.
The Bicentennial expedition set out on the 140-mile hike to Everest
from here on Aug. 3. A six-day snowstorm wrecked the original
timetable, which called for a final assault between Sept. 30 and Oct.
2.
0431aED 10-09
**********
a052 0242 09 Oct 76
PM-Everest, 1st Ld, a037, 120
URGENT
KATMANDU, Nepal (AP) - Two members of the American Bicentennial
Everest Expedition have made it to the top of the world's highest
mountain, the Foreign Ministry said today.
Dr. Chris Chandler, 28, of Seattle, and Bob Cormack, 30, of Boulder,
Colo., reached the top of Mt. Everest late Friday afternoon and
returned to Camp 5 today, the ministry said.
The climbers followed the traditional southeast ridge route
pioneered by the first conquerors of the 19,028-foot mountain, Sir
Edmund Hillary and his Sherpa guide, in 1953.
The two climbers spent about 30 minutes on the summit before
descending to Camp 6 at the 27,500-foot level, the ministry said. They
spent the night there before heading back to the next camp.
MORE
0543aED 10-09
**********
a056 0306 09 Oct 76
Everest, 1st Ld - 1st Add, a052-037, Writethru, 450
KATMANDU: next camp.
Chandler and Cormack had left Camp 6 about 7:30 Friday morning for
the last 1,528-vertical-foot stretch. Observers lost sight of them
after they crossed the last main obstacle, the dangerous ''Hillary
Step,'' because of clouds. Communications problems delayed reports
from Katmandu for a time.
The ministry said it took the two climbers about nine hours to make
it to the top. Their Sherpa guide, Ang Phurba, 27, did not accompany
them because of a malfunctioning oxygen cylinder, officials said.
This is the second conquest of Everest by Americans. The only
previous successful American expedition was in 1963, when James W.
Whittaker and Sherpa guide Nawang Gombu scaled the peak.
Sir Edmund Hillary of New Zealand and Sherpa guide Tenzing Norgay
were the first to conquer the mountain in 1953.
With the success of Chandler and Cormack, the select club of Everest
summiters now include 53 men and two women. One Sherpa has climbed
Everest twice.
A Japanese woman, Mrs. Junko Tabei, and a Tibetan, Mrs. Phanthog,
reached the top in May, 1975, from the south through Nepal and from
the north col in Tibet.
A second summit team from the Bicentennial expedition is scheduled
to try for the peak Monday or Tuesday. That will consist of Gerry
Roach, 33, of Boulder, Colo., Rick Ridgeway, 27, of Malibu, Calif.,
and Hans Bruyntjes, 29, of The Netherlands.
Neither of the two women in the expedition, Barbara Roach and Arlene
Blum, was included in the assault teams. They had hoped to become the
first American women to climb the mountain. A Japanese and a Chinese
woman have made it to the top.
The Bicentennial expedition set out on the 140-mile hike to Everest
from here on Aug. 3. A six-day snowstorm wrecked the original
timetable, which called for a final assault between Sept. 30 and Oct.
2.
Chandler is a doctor on the staff of the West Seattle General
Hospital in Washington State and a divorced father of three children.
His past climbing experience includes the blazing of new routes on
peaks in North America and the Andes in Peru.
As he set out with the team in August, Dr. Chandler said about
Everest: ''In one way it's just another peak, but then there is that
certain mystique about the place. And like any other mountain, if I
don't have to kill myself, I'd like to get to the top. It would still
be a good trip, an adventure, if I don't make it.''
Cormack owns a rooming house in Boulder, Colo. He also is a pilot
and occasional tutor of physics.
Cormack said at the outset of the expedition in August: ''Getting to
the summit is my goal, but I'm not prepared to die or lose my toes
and fingers for it.''
0607aED 10-09
**********
a057 0307 09 Oct 76
PM-Advisory,
Eds: PM-Everest 1st Ld A052 and A056 together are Everest 1st Ld
writethru.
The AP
0608aED 10-09
**********
a058 0309 09 Oct 76
PM-Everest, 1st Ld-Correction, a052, 30
KATMANDU: to fix height of mountain, sub for 3rd graf: ministry said.
The climbers followed the traditional southeast ridge route
pioneered by the first conquerors of the 29,028-foot mountain, Sir
Edmund Hillary and his Sherpa guide in 1953.
The two, 4th graf
0609aED 10-09
**********
a062 0341 09 Oct 76
PM-Everest, Bjt, 2d Ld, a052-056, 270
KATMANDU, Nepal (AP) - Two members of the American Bicentennial
Everest Expedition have conquered the world's highest mountain, but
didn't bring the flags they were to plant on the frozen summit, the
Foreign Ministry said today.
Dr. Chris Chandler, 28, of Seattle, Wash., and Bob Cormack, 30, of
Boulder, Colorado, reached the top of the 29,028-foot Mt. Everest late
Friday afternoon, the ministry said.
The ministry said it was told by radio that both the United States
and Nepalese flags were in the pack of Sherpa guide Ang Phurba, who
dropped out before the last leg because of problems with his oxygen
equipment.
The two climbers spent about 30 minutes on the summit before
descending to Camp 6 at the 27,500-foot level, the ministry said. They
spent the night there before heading back to the next camp.
Both men were reported in excellent health and were expected to
reach the base camp at 21,000 feet late this afternoon.
The climbers followed the traditional southeast ridge route
pioneered by the first conquerors of the mountain, Sir Edmund Hillary
and his Sherpa guide, in 1953.
Chandler and Cormack had left Camp 6 about 7:30 Friday morning for
the last 1,528-vertical-foot stretch. Observers lost sight of them
after they crossed the last main obstacle, the dangerous ''Hillary
Step,'' because of clouds.
The ministry said it took the two climbers about nine hours to make
it to the top.
This is the second conquest of Everest by Americans. The only
previous successful American expedition was in 1963, when James W.
Whittaker and Sherpa guide Nawang Gombu scaled the peak.
With the, 9th graf, sent as 5th in a056
0641aED 10-09
**********
a067 0410 09 Oct 76
PM-Everest, Bjt, 3rd Ld - Writethru, 420-590
Eds: The following 3rd Ld Writethru includes all material moved
previously as a037-a052-a056
KATMANDU, Nepal (AP) - Two members of the American Bicentennial
Everest Expedition have conquered the world's highest mountain, but
forgot the flags they were to plant on the frozen summit, the Foreign
Ministry said today.
Dr. Chris Chandler, 28, of Seattle, Wash., and Bob Cormack, 30, of
Boulder, Colorado, reached the top of the 29,028-foot Mt. Everest late
Friday afternoon, the ministry said.
The ministry said it was told by radio that both the U.S. and
Nepalese flags were in the pack of Sherpa guide Ang Phurba, who
dropped out before the last leg because of problems with his oxygen
equipment.
The two climbers spent about 30 minutes on the summit before
descending to Camp 6 at the 27,500-foot level, the ministry said. They
spent the night there before heading back to the next camp.
Both men were reported in excellent health and were expected to
reach the base camp at 21,000 feet late this afternoon.
The climbers followed the traditional southeast ridge route
pioneered by the first conquerors of the mountain, Sir Edmund Hillary
and his Sherpa guide, in 1953.
Chandler and Cormack had left Camp 6 about 7:30 Friday morning for
the last 1,528-vertical-foot stretch. Observers lost sight of them
after they crossed the last main obstacle, the dangerous ''Hillary
Step,'' because of clouds.
The ministry said it took the two climbers about nine hours to make
it to the top.
This is the second conquest of Everest by Americans. The only
previous successful American expedition was in 1963, when James W.
Whittaker and Sherpa guide Nawang Gombu scaled the peak.
With the success of Chandler and Cormack, the select club of Everest
summiters now include 53 men and two women. One Sherpa has cimbed
Everest twice.
A Japanese woman, Mrs. Junko Tabei, and a Tibetan, Mrs. Phanthog,
reached the top in May, 1975, from the south through Nepal and from
the north col in Tibet.
A second summit team from the Bicentennial expedition is scheduled
to try for the peak Monday or Tuesday. That will consist of Gerry
Roach, 33, of Boulder, Colo., Rick Ridgeway, 27, of Malibu, Calif.,
and Hans Bruyntjes, 29, of The Netherlands.
Neither of the two women in the expedition, Barbara Roach and Arlene
Blum, was included in the assault teams. They had hoped to become the
first American women to climb the mountain. A Japanese and a Chinese
woman have made it to the top.
MORE
0711aED 10-09
**********
a068 0414 09 Oct 76
PM-Everest, Bjt, 3rd Ld - 1st Add, 170
KATMANDU: the top.
The Bicentennial expedition set out on the 140-mile hike to Everest
from here on Aug. 3. A six-day snowstorm wrecked the original
timetable, which called for a final assault between Sept. 30 and Oct.
2.
Chandler is a doctor on the staff of the West Seattle General
Hospital in Washington State and a divorced father of three children.
His past climbing experience includes the blazing of new routes on
peaks in North America and the Andes in Peru.
As he set out with the team in August, Dr. Chandler said about
Everest: ''In one way it's just another peak, but then there is that
certain mystique about the place. And like any other mountain, if I
don't have to kill myself, I'd like to get to the top. It would still
be a good trip, an adventure, if I don't make it.''
Cormack owns a rooming house in Boulder, Colo. He also is a pilot
and occasional tutor of physics.
Cormack said at the outset of the expedition in August: ''Getting to
the summit is my goal, but I'm not prepared to die or lose my toes
and fingers for it.''
0714aED 10-09
**********
a070 0422 09 Oct 76
PM-Everesy Facts, 160
By The Associated Press
Here are some facts and figures about Mt. Everest:
LOCATION - On the border of Nepal and Tibet.
HEIGHT - 29,028 feet, the world's highest mountain.
TOTAL CONQUERORS BEFORE THIS - 40 men and 2 women.
FIRST CONQUERORS - Sir Edmund Hillary of New Zealand and Sherpa
guide Tenzing Norgay, on May 29, 1953.
FIRST AMERICAN CONQUEROR - James W. Whittaker of Seattle, Wash.,
with Sherpa guide Nawang Gombu, on May 1, 1963.
FIRST WOMAN CONQUEROR - Mrs. Junko Tabei, then 35, of Japan, on May
16, 1975. (China announced that a woman from Tibet was in a 12-member
Chinese team to reach the summit from the Tibet side on May 27,
1975.)
LAST PREVIOUS CLIMB - Sgt. J. H. Stokes and Sgt. M. P. Lane of the
British army, on May 16, 1976.
DEATHS - Recorded toll of 34. (According to Polish sources but not
confirmed by the U.S.S.R., 40 Soviet climbers were killed on an
expedition in December 1952, the Guinness Book of World Records says.)
0722aED 10-09
**********
a077 0516 09 Oct 76
PM-Everest Facts, Correction, a4960, 10
UNDATED: To fix total number of Everest conquerors previous to two
Americans, sub for 4th graf: highest mountain.
TOTAL CONQUERORS BEFORE THIS - 51 men and 2 women.
FIRST CONQUERORS, 5th graf
0816aED 10-09
**********
a201 0831 09 Oct 76
AM-Digest,
AP NEWS DIGEST
Sunday AMS
Here are the top stories in sight at this hour for Sunday AMS. The
General Desk Night Supervisor is Ed Dennehy. He may be reached at 212
262-6093 if you have an urgent question about the spot news report.
POLITICS
UNDATED - President Ford tells supporters in Texas that the American
people ''just can't believe'' Jimmy Carter. Carter challenges Ford to
make his income tax returns public. Political Roundup. New material,
developing.
With separates on Ford, Carter, and others as warranted.
WASHINGTON - A new public opinion poll has found, as did national
surveys, that Carter topped Ford in their confrontation on foreign
policy. New, should stand.
UNDATED - The Carter staff calls the candidate's refurbished
approach ''people-oriented.'' By AP Newsfeature Writer Jules Loh. New,
will stand. Moved in advance, seven takes, a685 through a691, Oct. 7.
Wirephoto NY62, Oct. 7.
ECONOMIC
WASHINGTON - The average 3/8merican took a 7.4 per cent increase in
his electricity bill last year, with New Yorkers paying the highest
rates in the country, the government reports. New, will stand. Advance
for release at 6:30 p.m. EDT.
WASHINGTON - A House subcommittee says that waste, delay and
mismanagement abound in four federal regulatory agencies that directly
affect people's lives. New, for release at 6:30 p.m. EDT.
WASHINGTON - Despite a continuing flow of disappointing economic
statistics, Ford administration economists claim the economy is
performing very close to their predictions for the year. New, will
stand.
INTERNATIONAL
HONG KONG - Chinese Premier Hua Kuo-feng, a protege of the late Mao
Tse-tung largely unknown to the outside world until last spring, is
elevated to Mao's job as party chairman. Lead prospects uncertain.
Wirephoto NY16.
With a separate profile of Hua.
KATMANDU, Nepal - A Seattle doctor and a Colorado rooming house
operator are the first two members of the American Bicentennial
Everest Expedition to conquer the world's highest mountain. Lead
prospects uncertain.
BANGKOK, Thailand - Thailand's new martial law regime releases about
1,000 persons on bail but continues to hold 2,000 others in its
campaign to rout suspected Communists. New material, may stand.
Wirephotos BK4,5,NY6.
RHODESIA
WASHINGTON - An American-British plan to keep a black-ruled Rhodesia
tied by money and politics firmly to the West for a long time emerges
in some detail. It includes an international commission to spend $1.5
to $2 billion in development funds. An AP News Special by Arthur L.
Gavshon. New, will stand.
NATIONAL
UNDATED - After the first full week of the swine flu immunization
porgram in many states, the federal Center for Disease Control says
public acceptance has been good and no adverse reactions to the shots
have been reported. New, will stand. Wirephoto CX2.
MIAMI - The jetstream, moving much farther south than usual, is
forcing most Atlantic hurricanes away from the U.S. mainland and
bringing devastating Pacific hurricanes to the West Coast, weather
forecasters say. New, will stand.
ATLANTIC CITY, N.J. - The home of the Boardwalk, the Miss America
Pageant and Monopoly, Atlantic City is asking New Jersey voters to
approve a Nov. 2 referendum that would allow casino gambling in the
city. New, will stand. Wirephoto NY18.
UNDATED - Jane Pauley - whom millions now know only as ''Who?'' -
starts Monday as the new First Lady of NBC's ''Today,'' facing both
viewers and inevitable comparisons to her predecessor, Barbara
Walters. New, will stand.
SPORTS GAMBLING
WASHINGTON - The National Gambling Commission, in its final report,
says it opposes legalizing wagering on individual sports events such
as football, baseball and basketball games. New, will stand.
1132aED 10-09
**********
a220 1046 09 Oct 76
AM-Everest, Bjt - 2 Takes, 450-910
By JURATE KAZICKAS
Associated Press Writer
EVEREST BASE CAMP, Nepal (AP) - Two members of the American
Bicentennial Everest Expedition have scaled the world's highest
mountain, but strong winds Saturday put a summit attempt by additional
climbers in doubt.
Word that Dr. Chris Chandler, 28, of Seattle, Wash., and Bob
Cormack, 30, of Boulder, Colo., had reached the peak of the
29,028-foot mountain on Friday ended a night of anxiety at the base
camp.
The two men were seen climbing into a cloud that obscured the summit
Friday afternoon. At noon Saturday watchers at Camp 5, perched on the
mountain at 26,200 feet and the next to last stop on the way to the
summit, reported the two men were seen climbing slowly down to the
camp. Winds were reported in excess of 100 miles an hour.
At 1:30 p.m. local time a more detailed report from Camp 5 said the
two triumphant climbers had reached the summit Friday afternoon, were
strong, and had not suffered frost bite.
Expedition leader Phillip Trimble, 38, a State Department lawyer in
Washington D.C., declared:
''It is difficult to express in words my pride and my relief that
they are all right. It is a great moment for the expedition.''
Dan Emmett, another expedition member, said: ''This is by far and
away the happiest moment of the expedition. The odds were building
against them. The strong wind, the 18-hour day, a cold night out -
they are a couple of pretty strong Americans.''
A three-man team left Camp 4 for another summit attempt, but whether
the climbers would continue on beyond Camp 5 was still to be decided.
Weather on the mountain was reported clear and sunny, but the winds
were described as unbearable.
Gerry Roach, 33, of Boulder, Colo., said on leaving Camp 4, ''Our
going to the summit depends on those guys being perfectly okay and the
wind, our food and our oxygen supply.''
Climbing with Roach were Rick Ridgeway, 27, of Malibu, Calif., and
Hans Bruyntjes, 28, of the Netherlands, the only non-American on the
12-member expedition, other than the Sherpa guides and bearers.
The summit success was reported by radio to the Nepalese Foreign
Ministry in Katmandu, which made the first public announcement.
The ministry said the two flags which the climbers had planned to
plant on the frozen summit had been left behind in the pack of Sherpa
guide Ang Phurba, who dropped out before the last leg because of
problems with his oxygen equipment.
The ministry said Chandler and Cormack spent about 30 minutes on the
top of the mountain before climbing down to Camp 6 at 27,500 feet
where they spent the night.
The climbers followed the traditional southeast ridge route to the
peak taken by the first conquerors of the mountain, Sir Edmund Hillary
and his Sherpa guide, Tensing Norgay, in 1953.
MORE
1346pED 10-09
**********
a221 1055 09 Oct 76
AM-Everest, Bjt, 1st Add, 460
EVEREST BASE CAMP add: in 1953.
Chandler and Cormack bring to 55 the number of persons who have
scaled Everest. One Sherpa has climbed the mountain twice, and two of
the successful climbers were women - Mrs. Junko Tabei of Japan and a
Tibetian woman, Mrs. Phanthog, who reached the top on separate
expeditions in May 1975.
Two women members of the bicentennial expedition hoped to become the
first American women to climb Everest, but were not picked for either
summit team so far. Barbara Roach, 32, wife of Gerry, had trouble
acclimatizing to the altitude, and Arlene Blum, 31, of Menlo Park,
Calif., was last reported suffering from a stomach ailment.
Chandler and Cormack were the first Americans to climb Everest since
the first successful American expedition in 1963 which brought five
men to the top of the world and made James W. Whittaker of Seattle,
Wash., the first American to conquer the mountain.
The bicentennial expedition is only the third to reach the top of
Everest in the postmonsoon season first opened to foreigners by
Nepalese authorities in the early 1950s. The other postmonsoon
successes were by a Japanese team in 1973 and a British expedition in
1975. Five other postmonsoon expeditions failed.
The 10 other successful Everest expeditions were all accomplished in
the premonsoon season.
The bicentennial expedition came about by chance. Trimble, a native
of Springfield, Ohio, was considering scaling a 24,000-foot peak in
the Himalayas when he learned last December from a friend in Nepal
that the French had dropped their 1976 option to climb Everest.
After discussing the project with mountain-climbing friends, Trimble
picked up the French option with only seven months to get the
expedition organized. Most Everest expeditions take two to three years
of organization and planning.
The climbers left Katmandu for the 140-mile hike to Everest on Aug.
3. A six-day snowstorm on the mountain delayed their orginal schedule
which had foreseen a summit attempt between Sept. 30 and Oct. 2.
Chandler, an emergency room physician at West Seattle General
Hospital and divorced father of three children, said before starting
out for Everest: ''In one way it's just another peak, but then there
is that certain mystique about the place.''
On leave from his hospital for the Everest expedition, Chandler
planned medical observation of the effects of high altitude on
respiratory and pulmonary systems.
As well as being a climber, Cormack is also a stunt pilot and was
rated as a ''very good'' by his instructor who said the 6 foot 3
mathematician had won the second International Aerobatic Club
competition he entered. He owns a rooming house in Boulder and
occasionally tutors in physics. Looking forward to the Everest trip he
said, ''Getting to the summit is my goal, but I'm not prepared to die
or lose my tos and fingers for it.''
1356pED 10-09
**********
a260 1512 09 Oct 76
AM-Everest, Sub, a220, 40
EVEREST BASE CAMP: To add nationalities of flags, sub 12th graf: The
ministry . . . oxygen equipment.
The ministry said the American and Nepalese flags, which the
climbers had planned to plant on the frozen summit, had been left
behind in the pack of Sherpa guide Ang Phurba. The guide dropped out
before the last leg because of pborlems with his oxygen equipment.
The ministey, 13th graf
1813pED 10-09
**********
a011 0717 10 Oct 76
BC-Everest, 200
KATMANDU, Nepal (AP) - The American Bicentennial Everest Expedition
abandoned Sunday further attempts on the world's highest mountain
after putting two members on the 29,028-foot summit, base camp
reported to the Nepalese Foreign Ministry.
A ministry spokesman said Phil Trimble, 38, leader of the 12-member
expedition, made the decision after consulting with the three men
preparing for the next attempt.
Gerry Roach, 33, Rick Ridgeway, 26, and Hans Bruyntjes, 29, were to
have made the second summit attempt Sunday.
They were reported waiting at Camp 4 at 24,500 feet.
According to information available in Katmandu, most of the
expedition members have gone down to Camp 2 at 21,000 feet, where
Trimble was staying.
''They were scheduled to descend to base camp Monday,'' the ministry
spokesman said.
The spokesman said the two who reached the summit, Dr. Chris
Chandler and Bob Cormack, were ''in good physical condition.'' They
were also to descend to base camp Monday from Camp 2.
1018aED 10-10
**********
a201 0813 10 Oct 76
AM-News Digest,
AP NEWS DIGEST
Monday AMs
Here are the top stories in sight at this hour for Monday AMs. The
General Desk Night Supervisor is Ed Dennehy. He may be reached at 212
262-6093 if there are any urgent questions about the spot news
report.
POLITICS
UNDATED - Hopes of defeating Jimmy Carter in his native South may be
luring President Ford to spend a dangerous share of time and money in
states that may not be worth the price in electoral votes. A
Campaign '76 Special by Don McLeod. New, will stand.
DALLAS - President Ford worships at the First Baptist Church of
Dallas, whose pastor has criticized fellow Baptist Jimmy Carter on
foreign policy and for his Playboy interview. Developing. Wirephoto
covering.
SOUTH BEND, Ind. - Jimmy Carter campaigns through ethnic strongholds
of the Middle West, as his aides claim he has overcome President
Ford's advantage of being the incumbent. Developing. Wirephoto
covering
With Undated Political Roundup and separates on Mondale and Dole.
INTERNATIONAL
EVEREST BASE CAMP - The American Bicentennial Everest Expedition
which put two climbers on the summit of the world's highest mountain
gives up plans to send a second team to the 29,028-foot peak. New
material.
RAMSTEIN, West Germany - Ed Yost, who lifted off from the Maine
coast last week in an attempt to float over the Atlantic in a balloon,
ditches east of the Azores and is rescued by a West German tanker.
Developing. Wirephoto WX1, Map NY3.
TOKYO - China's official news agency says the entire country has
expressed determination to unite and rally behind the Communist Party
Central Committee headed by Hua Kuo-feng. New material.
BANGKOK, Thailand - The right-wing military coup here will probably
mean a ''freeze'' in Thailand's move toward detente with its
Communist neighbors in Indochina, but analysts don't see a direct, hot
confrontation. An AP News Analysis by Denis D. Gray. New, will Stand.
NATIONAL
PORTLAND, Ore. - Timber theft has become a multi-million dollar
racket with log lifting from federal land in Oregon alone will exceed
$1 million this year, according to Sean McWeeney, acting special
agent in charge of the Portland FBI office. New, will stand.
CHICAGO - Sixteen is too young for driving and 18 is too young for
drinking, particularly for boys, a Northwestern University
psychiatrist reports. New, will stand.
EDUCATION
BOYKIN, Ala. - Black children climb aboard the school bus in the
pre-dawn hours to begin a 10-hour school day caused by the 107-mile
roundtrip bus ride. All of it is to achieve racial integration but
most of the whites have fled the school at the other end. New, will
stand.
PHILADELPHIA - The girls have ribbons in their hair and the boys
have their shirts tucked neatly in their trousers. They stood in
STRAIGHT LINES AS THEY WAITED TO RECITETHE Pledge of Allegiance. The
school is one of 17 in the city that has gone back to basics. New,
will stand.
SOME ARM TWISTING
PETALUMA, Calif. - Five-hundred muscle-bound men and women from 50
states and three foreign countries grunt and strain in the World's
Wristwrestling Championship, the 13th annual matchup in a competition
that started on a barroom table. New, will stand.
1114aED 10-10
**********
a211 0930 10 Oct 76
AM-Everest, Bjt, 360
By JURATE KAZICKAS
Associated Press Writer
EVEREST BASE CAMP, Nepal (AP) - High winds and numbing cold on the
upper reaches of Mt. Everest forced the American Bicentennial
expedition Sunday to abandon plans to put a second team of climbers
atop the 29,028-foot summit.
Dr. Chris Chandler and Robert Cormack reached the summit Friday
afternoon and by Sunday had descended to Camp 2, an advance camp at
21,000 feet.
Almost a mile farther up the mountain at Camp 4, the second team -
Gerry Roach, 33, of Boulder, Colo., Rick Ridgeway, 26, of Malibu,
Calif., and Hans Bruyntjes, 29, of the Netherlands - received word
from expedition leader Phil Trimble that the planned second assault
was being scrapped.
''We have decided to abandon the mountain,'' Trimble said from Camp
2, where he was overseeing the far-flung operation. ''It's very windy
and cold and the weather seems to be getting worse. A second summit
attempt is not worth the risks it would entail.''
Winds in excess of 100 miles an hour were reported Saturday at
26,000 feet and above. Overnight temperatures in recent days have
dipped to 20 below zero Fahrenheit on the upper slopes.
Chandler, 28, a physician from Seattle, Wash., and Cormack, a
30-year-old pilot and sometimes physics teacher from Boulder, Colo.,
were reported in good physical condition at Camp 2.
(The Nepal Foreign Ministry in Katmandu said Mike Hoover, 33, a CBS
television cameraman who followed the expedition up to 26,200 feet,
was reported ailing. The exact nature and seriousness of his illness
was not known in Katmandu. He had descended to Camp 2 by Sunday.)
The American Bicentennial Everest Expedition (ABEE) had hoped to put
10 of its 12 climbers on the summit, but the two teams were reduced
to three climbers each because the group did not have enough Sherpa
guides and bearers to carry equipment loads to the highest camps.
The third member of the Chandler-Cormack team, Sherpa guide Ang
Phurba, was forced to drop back to Camp 4 because of a faulty
regulator on his oxygen tank.
Except for the three second-team climbers, the expedition members
were either here or at Camp 2 Sunday. Those at Camp 2 were scheduled
to descend to base camp Monday.
1231pED 10-10
**********
a052 0254 11 Oct 76
PM-Everest, 330
By JURATE KAZICKAS
Associated Press Writer
EVEREST BASE CAMP, Nepal (AP) - Members of the American Bicentennial
Everest Expedition headed back to base camp today after
100-mile-per-hour winds and numbing cold forced cancellation of an
attempt to put a second team on top of the world's tallest mountain.
Dr. Chris Chandler and Robert Cormack made it to the 29,028-foot
summit Friday afternoon, but expedition leader Phil Trimble decided
Sunday to call off an assault by the three-man second team.
''We have decided to abandon the mountain,'' Trimble said from Camp
2, at 21,000 feet. ''It's very windy and cold and the weather seems
to be getting worse. A second summit attempt is not worth the risks it
would entail.''
Winds of more than 100 miles were reported above 26,000 feet, with
temperatures dropping to 20 below zero Fahrenheit.
The second team - Gerry Roach, 33, of Boulder, Colo.; Rick Ridgeway,
26, of Malibu, Calif.; and Hans Bruyntjes of The Netherlands - were
at Camp 4, at 24,500 feet. They had been scheduled to make the attempt
today or Tuesday, but instead will head for Camp 2.
The other nine American climbers were already back at the base camp
or on their way down from Camp 2.
Chandler, 28, a physician from Seattle, and Cormack, 30, a pilot and
physics teacher from Boulder, Colo., were reported in good condition.
(The Nepalese Foreign Ministry in Katmandu reported that CBS
television cameraman Mike Hoover, 32, was ill, but the nature and
seriousness of his illness was not known.
(Hoover had followed the climbers up to 26,200 feet and was back at
Camp 2 on Sunday.)
The expedition originally planned to put 10 of its 12 members on top
of the mountain but had to cut back to two three-man teams because it
did not have enough Sherpa guides and bearers to get all the
equipment up to the highest camps.
Sherpa guide Ang Phurba was the third member of the Chandler-Cormack
team but had to drop back to Camp 4 because of a faulty regulator on
his oxygen tank.
0555aED 10-11
**********
n045 1210 11 Oct 76
BC-BECK COLUMN 1stadd
HOLLYWOOD: same.
If ''Maude'' actress Rue McClanahan gets her way, producer
Norman Lear will be officiating at her wedding to realtor
Gus Fisher on Nov. 6. She says she has found out that such
a binding would be legal, as long as a judge or clergyman
is also in attendance - and at the moment is waiting for
Lear to say ''I will.''
Even if he won't, the hitching should turn out to be quite
a memorable event, with the bridegroom's family preparing
a Greek banquet for 300 guests and bringing it with them
when they jet in from Chicago! The wedding will take place
in the garden of the home the soon-to-be-newlyweds recently
purchased in the Studio City section of the San Fernando
Valley.
YOU DON'T SAY: Peter Boyle says, ''I feel like I just climbed
Everest - towing a large rock.'' He didn't, but he did just
complete production on ''Tail Gunner Joe,'' NBC'a three-hour
movie about the late Sen. Joseph McCarthy, and was suffering
from an extremely painful inner ear infection all during
the assignment. The assignment would have been a challenge
even if he'd been well, because it called for Peter to memorize
page after page of long speeches....
Author Irving Wallace says he met world-famed soccer-football
star Pele on a recent trip from Europe to the U.S., and by
the time the flight was over had convinced Pele to write
a chapter for ''The Book of Lists,'' which Irving is coauthoring
with son, David Wallechinsky, and daughter, Amy. The athlete
will supply his list of ''The Ten Greatest Soccer-Football
Players of All Time.''
Hardy Kruger, who's just completed portraying an SS Nazi
in Joseph Levine's ''A Bridge Too Far'' production, says
he wore a topcoat over the uniform between takes, ''so as
not to trouble the Dutch people, or remind myself of my childhood
in Germany during World War II....''
Susan Oliver, an accomplished pilot who portrays a pilot
in NBC's Oct. 25 ''Amelia Earhart'' film, says she was impressed
with Susan Clark's knowledge of flying. She had known that
Ms. Clark had taken some lessons to prepare for the starring
role, but says, ''I was amazed - she can actually fly.''
I assume she means - in a plane....
c.1976 Marilyn Beck
Special Features
(To purchase the above material call John Osenenko or Peter
Willett in New York (212) 556-1721 or 556-1114. In Europe
or Middle East contact Paul Gendelman in Paris, 073-9513
(Telex 230650). In the Far East contact Ray Falk in Tokyo
at Telex 2226717.)
1011 1510ped
**********
a059 0408 12 Oct 76
PM-Everest, 200
KATMANDU, Nepal (AP) - All members of the American Bicentennial
Everest Expedition have arrived safely at their base camp after
calling off plans to put a second climbing team on top of the world's
highest mountain, an American Embassy official said today.
The official, who spoke to the base camp by radio, said the last
Sherpa guide who accompanied the climbers arrived at the base camp
this morning.
The official said he did not speak with the two men who climbed to
the summit, Dr. Chris Chandler and Robert Cormack, because they were
having a ''big breakfast'' and did not come to the radio.
Chandler, 28, of Seattle, and Cormack, 30, of Boulder, Colo., made
it to the 29,028-foot summit Friday afternoon. Expedition leader Phil
Trimble called off an attempt by the second team because the
temperature had dropped to 20 degrees below zero and there were winds
of more than 100 miles an hour.
''A second summit attempt is not worth the risks it would entail,''
he said.
The second team climbed to 24,500 feet. The members of the team were
Gerry Roach, 33, of Boulder; Rick Ridgeway, 26, of Malibu, Calif.;
and Hans Bruyntjes of The Netherlands.
0709aED 10-12
**********
n540 0505 12 Oct 76
The following Bartlett column is copyrighted and for use only
by newspapers that have arranged for its publication with Field
Newspaper Syndicate. Any other use is prohibited.
Release Wednesday, October 13
(Transmitted 10-12)
News Focus: No More Disparagements
BY CHARLES BARTLETT
WASHINGTON - The ascent by two young Americans to the peak
of Mount Everest may help to dispel the discouragement being
spread by Jimmy Carter's assertions that the United States
is no longer strong or respected in the world.
Carter's disparagements echo past campaigns as well as the
self-doubts which many American felt at the end of the Johnson
years. They are reminders of the gap between John Kennedy's promise
to rebuild American prestige and the emotionally divided state
in which the Democrats left the country eight years later.
''On the whole the United States is in a much healthier
condition than the rest of the free world,'' the noted British
political scientist, Max Beloff, said last winter. ''I feel much
more optimistic every time I cross the Atlantic. At this moment,
it's true, Americans are passing through a period of
self-examination and self-criticism. It's a sort of trauma which
I hope will end very quickly because most of it is
totally unnecessary.''
Carter's bleak view undoubtedly derives from his political
dilemma. Americans are in a more cheerful mood this fall than
they have been in any presidential campaign since 1960. Carter
hears from his political analysts that there is no massive urge
to push him into office because the voters, while still wary
of government, are increasingly optimistic about the way things
are going. He is told they can be persuaded to vote a change of
leadership, but they certainly aren't looking for sharp changes.
In scratching for issues, Carter risks a further discovery that
the public is no longer receptive to rhetoric which puts in doubt
the nation's standing in the world. Sensitivities linger from the
bruising experience in Southeast Asia. People have put
foreign policy at the bottom of their list of concerns and they
are anxious to be reassured that the nation is playing a wise and
proper hand abroad. They want a chance to relish the
blessing of peace.
Moreover, Carter's rhetoric is not justified by the record. Faced
with a Communist world bent on allotting more resources to civilian
usage and a free world made less secure by energy costs and
inflation, the Ford administration has been aggressively agile
and adept. The uncertainties abroad were created by Congress's
erratic stands, not by Ford's even, open ways.
A weak President would have left the nation floundering in its
self-indulgent use of energy, a ready target for blackmail from
abroad in those days when reliance on oil imports would exceed
the domestic production. Congress would, after all, have been
happy to participate in creating this vulnerability.
But Ford took strong stands to assert the stern realities
against the political inclination to placate the consumer at the
expense of the future. He tugged and pulled Congress into
slow, reluctant agreement with his premise that energy price
rises are the best hope of stimulating conservation and obtaining
new supplies. Whether the President next winter is Ford or Carter,
virtually all the Ford program, including natural gas
deregulation, is almost certain to be enacted.
This readiness on the part of the Ford administration to tackle
the energy crisis and inflation lent credibility to its
efforts to secure cooperation in the West on monetary reform and
other crucial adjustments. Its potential for leadership was
enlarged by its skill at becoming trusted as an intermediary
in the standoff between Egypt and Israel. Its cautious
approach to understandings with the Soviets quited the
fears about detente.
Carter makes the situation seem much grimmer than it is.
When John Kennedy campaigned he used to say he was going to
''make a great nation greater.'' But Carter talks as if he were
battling for control of a rampant mess. His political
strategy is intruding on the citizens' enjoyment of their
blessings and the progress they have made against the problems.
(Release Wednesday, October 13)
hb (End Bartlett) 10-12
uu
...
(End missing.)
**********
a201 0934 12 Oct 76
AM-News Digest,
AP NEWS DIGEST
Wednesday AMs
Here are the top stories in sight at this hour for Wednesday AMs.
The General Desk Night Supervisor is Ed Dennehy. He may be reached at
212 262-6093 if you have an urgent question about the spot news
report.
POLITICS
WASHINGTON - President Ford tells ethnic leaders that he made a
mistake in saying Eastern Europe is not under Soviet domination. Ford
adds that the United States ''never will recognize, accept or
acquiesce in this Soviet domination.'' New material, developing.
Wirephoto WX2, others upcoming.
UNDATED - Jimmy Carter, Walter Mondale and Bob Dole rest and study
while President Ford tries to mollify ethnic leaders and sets out on
his fourth campaign trip. Political Roundup, developing.
With separate on Carter.
WASHINGTON - The Supreme Court refuses to take up what may be the
last legal challenge to this year's televised presidential debates,
rejecting a bid by minor candidates for equal time. New material,
Supreme Court roundup, may stand.
NATIONAL
PITTSBURGH - Thirteen swine flu vaccination clinics are shut down
after three elderly people die hours after getting shots. There is no
evidence the shots directly caused the deaths, and federal officials
say the nationwide immunzation program will continue. New material,
developing. Wirephoto Map NY27.
With separate on status of inoculation program from the federal
Center for Disease Control in Atlanta.
DETROIT - A proposed settlement of the United Auto Workers'
four-week-old strike against Ford Motor Co. faces a veto by a minority
group of skilled tradesmen, raising the possibility of a legal
challenge by the automaker. Developing. Announcement of vote expected
sometime after 6 p.m. EDT.
CHINA
TOKYO - A Chinese government spokesman says Premier Hua Kuo-feng has
been named successor to the late Mao Tse-tung as chairman of the
Chinese Communist party, according to a Japanese news agency. Mao's
widow and three other radical leaders are reported under arrest in a
power struggle. New material. Wirephotos NY17,22.
With separate profile of Hua Kuo-feng.
UNDATED - The reported arrest of the radicals in Peking represents a
victory for moderates and reaffirmation of China's detente with the
United States and the West. AP News Analysis, by John Roderick.
NIXON AIDES
WASHINGTON - An appeals court upholds the convictions of three of
former President Nixon's closest aides but orders a new trial for
former Asst. Atty. Gen. Robert C. Mardian. New material, developing.
THE SUMMIT
EVEREST BASE CAMP, Nepal - Two American conquerors of Mt. Everest
tell of 100-mile-per-hour winds and menacing 10,000-foot drops on
their final push to the summit. By Jurate Kazickas. New, will stand.
Wirephoto NY26.
ELEMENTARY, FIDO, ELEMENTARY
OAKLAND, Calif. - Your dog lost? Call on ''Sherlock Bones,'' an
ex-Wall Street stock broker who has established what he says is the
world's first dog detective agency. His partner is a sheep dog. New,
will stand. Wirephoto upcoming.
1235pED 10-12
**********
a229 1223 12 Oct 76
AM-Everest, Bjt, 2 Takes, 470-760
Wirephoto NY28
By JURATE KAZICKAS
Associated Press Writer
(Editors Note: Associated Press Writer Jurate Kazickas accompanied
the American Bicentennial Everest Expedition to the climbers' base
camp. Here is her report on the experiences of the two who reached the
top.)
EVEREST BASE CAMP, Nepal (AP) - When Bob Cormack finally got to the
summit of Mt. Everest, he looked around to the edge of the world
while hurricane winds howled and said to himself: ''I better get the
hell out of here.''
Something similar passed through the mind of Chris Chandler as he,
too, skirted 10,000-foot drops and reached the top last Friday.
''The winds were over 100 miles per hour and we could hardly stand
up, It was late in the afternoon. I asked myself what am I doing
here,'' Chandler said.
Chandler, 28, of Seattle, Wash., and Cormack, 30, of Boulder, Colo.,
said they were too concerned with survival to spend much time on the
summit savoring the triumph of the U.S. Bicentennial Everest
Expedition..
''It was a crumby day to climb Everest,'' Cormack said. The wind was
so strong, he said, that on the way up he had to squat down for a few
minutes every 10 steps.
The two men, roped about 100 feet apart, were helped up the steep
Hillary Step just below the summit by a fixed rope they found left
over from another expedition. ''If either of us had made a mistake it
would have been all over because there were 10,000-foot drops on
either side,'' said Chandler.
Exhausted and cold, the two nevertheless spent half an hour on the
summit at 29,028 feet taking pictures and gazing down into the clouds
over Nepal and on to the plains of Tibet.
''Here I am on the summit of Everest,'' Cormak remembered thinking.
''I could hardly believe it.''
The two set out from Camp 6 at an elevation of 27,450 feet with
Sherpa Ang Phurba at about 7:30 on Friday morning.
Within an hour Ang Phurba was forced to turn back because of a
frozen oxygen regulator.
''It was so late by then, that I thought it was hardly worth the
effort to try for the summit,'' said Cormack.
But when the two reached the south summit, just 278 feet short of
the top, at about 1 o'clock, Cormack thought, ''Wow, we're going to
make it.''
They had not anticipated, however, the debilitating effects of
working at that altitude, even with oxygen.
The plan was to lave at the south summit one of the two bottles of
oxygen they were carrying and to pick it up on the return trip.
Taking off their mittens to remove the pack, warming up their hands,
removing the oxygen bottle and getting packed up again took almost an
hour. Then Chandler had some problems with his oxygen mask and that
took another 30 minutes. And then there was a pause to nibble some
candy, nuts, and raisins and drink a lot of lemonade.
''From the south summit on the wind really began to howl.'' said
Cormack.
MORE
1525pED 10-12
**********
a230 1229 12 Oct 76
AM-Everest, Bjt, 1st Add, 290
EVEREST BASE CAMP add: Cormack.
It took the two men 35 minutes to climb the famous Hillary Step, a
very steep 70 foot pitch named for Sir Edmund Hillary of New Zealand,
who together with Sherpa Tenzing Norgay, was the first to scale
Everest.
The climbers had picked 4 p.m. as the hour they would turn back no
matter where they were, but by then the summit was just 50 feet away.
''It was nearly the end of my endurance,'' said Cormack. ''The wind
was blowing so hard I could not stand up. I had to squat every few
minutes and then take 10 steps and sit down again.''
Then they saw the tripod with tattered remnants of flags left by the
Chinese expedition in 1975. ''We knew we had made it,'' said Chandler
who described the summit as a tiny 2-feet by 2-feet area.
The men left no flag on the summit. The United States flag was in
Cormack's pocket, but he said it was just too cold and complicated to
get it out.
Chandler's romanticism proved more compelling than patriotism. He
managed to tie to the tripod his girl friend's green scarf containing
rice blessed by a lama.
''What am I doing here? I have to get out of here,'' Chandler then
said to himself.
And Cormack too was seized by a strong drive to get off the
mountain, ''I was in such a hurry to get down that nothing seemed
difficult any more.''
The men descended in darkness, reaching Camp 6 at 7:30 p.m.
The next morning Cormack and Chandler made it down to Camp 5 without
oxygen, stumbling and falling every few steps from exhaustion.
Chandler finally crawled on his hands and knees to the welcome tent.
''I never experienced anything like that in my life and don't plan
to ever again,'' he said.
1530pED 10-12
**********
a244 1315 15 Oct 76
AM-Debate Scene, Bjt - 2 takes, 400-620
By HARRY F. ROSENTHAL
Associated Press Writer
HOUSTON, Tex. (AP) - The second team, Bob Dole and Walter Mondale,
got a chance to parade themselves, their wit and their views before a
nationwide audience Friday night from a theater described ''as
ancient as stone, as modern as Houston.''
For two United States senators whose national recognition factor
entitles them to a place on those credit card commercials, it was 75
minutes in the spotlight.
As candidates for the number two spot they fell in the category of
the second man on the moon, the second to invent the sewing machine or
the second to climb Everest. Close to first counts only in
horseshoes.
They didn't hope to draw the kind of audiences Ford and Carter had
estimated in the 85 to 100 million range. And besides, as Dole pointed
out, it was high school football night and if he had the choice TV
viewers had, he would be at the game.
Dole and Mondale used the set that President Ford and Jimmy Carter
had for their first debates, and the lecterns at the panelist left was
still the Democratic side and the one on the right still the
Republican but there the resemblance ended.
The vice presidential candidates played by their own rules: shorter
questions, shorter answers and no followups.
Dole said instead of being dull for 90 minutes they would have to do
it in 75.
Both men went to the Alley Theater site of the debate Friday to get
the feel of the place and to allow technicians - who had worked with
stand-ins earlier - to check their equipment.
The haunting memory of the first debate when Ford and Carter stood
mute in Philadelphia with nothing to do while the sound went out for
27 minutes caused some special run-throughs.
''We have backup systems upon backup systems,'' said Wallace
Westfeldt, who is producing the show for the Public Broadcasting
System. PBS is providing the ''pool'' that furnishes picture and sound
to all the networks.
A test of emergency procedures, with director Bob Wynn inventing all
manner of dire foulups, duplicated the now famous sound failure. It
took five seconds to get things working again.
''It's just like playing the game of politics,'' Westfeldt said ''We
ask what if . . .''
If that includes another failure that couldn't be rectified, the
debate would continue anyway if only for the 658 in the live audience.
MORE
1617pED 10-15
**********
a201 0819 16 Oct 76
AP NEWS DIGEST
SUNDAY AMS
Here are the top stories in sight at this hour for Sunday AMs. The
General Desk Night Supervisor is Ed Dennehy. He may be reached at
212-262-6093 if you have an urgent question about the spot news
report.
POLITICS
UNDATED - President Ford declares that Jimmy Carter is inconsistent
on the issues, while Carter says Ford is misrepresenting his views.
Both claim their running mates won Friday night's debate. Political
roundup. Developing.
ABOARD THE CAMPAIGN TRAIN ''HONEST ABE'' - With an attack on Jimmy
Carter, President Ford hops aboard te ''Honest Abe'' for an
old-fashioned, whistlestop train trip through Illinois. New material,
developing. Wirephoto covering.
KANSAS CITY, Mo. - Jimmy Carter says he has sent President Ford
telegrams claiming Ford has misrepresented his position on four
issues. New material, developing. Wirephoto KX2.
WASHINGTON - As a show, the confrontation between Sens. Bob Dole and
Walter Mondale probably would rate better reviews than the first two
debates between President Ford and Jimmy Carer. But it is unlikely it
would change many votes. AP News Analysis by Donald M. Rothberg. New,
will stand. Wirephoto Chart NY10.
INTERNATIONAL
BEIRUT - Syrian forces launch repeated assaults on the Palestinian
mountain stronghold of Aley and seal off the port of Sidon. Five Arab
chiefs of state and guerrilla chief Yasir Arafat meet in Saudi Arabia
in search of an end to the war. Developing. Wirephotos NIC1,2,
Wirephoto Map NY16.
MOSCOW - The Soviet Union's Soyuz-23 spacecraft is returning to
earth after mechanical problems force cancellation of its planned
docking with an orbiting space laboratory. Lead Prospects Uncertain.
TOKYO - The rebroadcast of a popular television film about the
Chinese revolution has raised speculation in Peking that the disgraced
moderate Teng Hsiao-ping may make a political comeback, according to
Japanese news reports. New, will stand.
EVEREST BASE CAMP - For those members of the American Bicentennial
expedition who did not make it to the summit of Mt. Everest the
10-week trip was everything from a ''bust'' to a great adventure. By
Jurate Kazickas. New, will stand.
NASSAU, The Bahamas - Shortly after dawn this week, in the small
gallows room at Her Majesty's Prison, Michaiah Shobek, 22, an
American, will be hanged. New, will stand.
MEXICO CITY - Panama reopens canal negotiations with the United
States in a few days in an apparent attempt to divert Panamanians'
mounting discontent with their own government. An AP News Analysis by
Tom Wells. New, will stand.
NATIONAL
PORT TOWNSEND, Wash. - A fish war is being waged on Puget Sound this
fall as fishermen, Indians and the state clash over dwindling salmon
runs. New, will stand.
DOVER, Del. - Delaware's legal pro football betting lottery, the
first in the nation, has been taking in only an eighth of what state
officials had predicted. New, will stand.
A CHILI DAY IN TEXAS . . .
TERLINGUA, Tex. - The women were lined up with the men for the World
Series of Chili in this west Texas ghost town. It would not have been
that way in the old days. New. Late afternoon lead expectable after
winner is chosen.
1122aED 10-16
**********
a216 0951 16 Oct 76
AM-Everest, Bjt - 2 takes, 450-940
By JURATE KAZICKAS
Associated Press Writer
EVEREST BASE CAMP, Nepal (AP) - For those members of the American
Bicentennial expedition who did not make it to the summit of Mt.
Everest, the 10-week trip was everything from a ''bust'' to a great
adventure. In some cases, ''never again'' was the final word.
Two men, Bob Cormack and Chris Chandler, made it to the top of the
world - at 29,028 feet - on Oct. 8. Ten other members of the
expedition, including two women, had to be content with personal
achievements at various high altitudes and the knowledge that whatever
they did - help finance and organize equipment, or make the route
between the high camps - was essential to the success of the climb.
(Cormack and expedition leader Phil Trimble reached Katmandu early
Saturday after their climb down from Everest. The other team members
were expected to arrive in Katmandu Sunday.
(Cormack told a news conference he was looking forward to his first
hot bath in more than a month, then planned to look around the
Nepalese capital. Cormack, who is from Boulder, Colo., added that his
next climbing will be on ''a small, pleasant mountain - I mean the
Rockies through Colorado.''
(Trimble, a State Department lawyer from Washington, said he hoped
to return to the Himalayas to climb another mountain. He mentioned Cho
Oyu, a 26,750-foot peak in the Everest region. It claimed the lives
of two women climbers and two Sherpa guides in 1959.)
Among the expedition members denied the summit, Gerry Roach of
Boulder, Colo., felt the denial most keenly. He had dreamed of
climbing Everest since he was a child and it was desperately important
to him to make the top.
''That's what climbing is all about,'' he said.
Throughout the trip, the strong, vitamin-popping 33-year-old
mathematician was considered the No. 1 contender for the summit. He
had been slotted for the first team, when, the day before leaving the
advance base for the top, he became slightly ill and decided he'd be
at maximum strength if he waited for two days and went on the second
three-man team.
He and the others never got a chance to go because of the lack of
support from Sherpa carriers and the bitter, windy weather, and
because when it looked as if Chandler and Cormack may have been
stranded on the mountain, the second team unselfishly gave up rest and
preparations for the summit to go up to Camp 5 on a possible rescue
mission.
''I'm very disappointed I didn't go to the top,'' said Roach,
packing his gear to go home. ''For me, the trip was a bust. The
Everest experience means nothing to me without he summit. At best, it
was a neutral experience, a nice vacation. It's better than sitting
at a desk in Boulder.''
MORE
1254pED 10-16
**********
a217 1000 16 Oct 76
AM-Everest, Bjt - 1st Add, 490
EVEREST BASE CAMP: in Boulder.''
Rick Ridgeway of Malibu, Calif., had a spot on that second team that
never got a chance for the summit.
''I don't feel as bad as I thought I might,'' said Ridgeway. ''Sure
I'm disappointed. But I was so worried about Chris and Bob that when
I knew they were alive I felt so wonderful that the other feelings
didn't matter.
''I feel a part of me was up there because we all put so much effort
into going up there,'' said Ridgeway, coughing badly from bronchitis.
''This mountain has taken more out of me than any other climb. I've
had a lot of adventures in my life but this is right up there on
top.''
The third member of the second team, Hans Bruyntjes, might have been
the first Dutchman on Everest. He was the only non-American on the
12-member expedition.
''It's a pity I didn't have a chance because I know I could have
made it,'' said Bruyntjes. ''But it was a great experience being with
all those people. I won't forget it. But no, never again. I've had my
experience. And it's enough for me to be part of a successful
expedition.''
Frank Morgan, a lawyer living in Jakarta, Indonesia, walked one day
to Camp 5 on the South Col at 26,200 feet.
''That was far enough for me,'' said Morgan. ''I think I had peaked
psychologically by then. It was very satisfying to look down into
Tibet. I'm not disappointed I didn't get to the summit. It's dangerous
up there.''
Dr. Dee Crouch, of Boulder, Colo., who also went as far as the Col,
was disappointed, too, about the summit but shrugged and said, ''I'll
forget about it in a month. I doubt if I'll want to go on another big
expedition. But then, that's what I said after the last one.''
Barbara Roach knew she would never get to the summit weeks ago when
she came down from Advance Base suffering from altitude sickness. All
she ever really cared about was that husband Gerry make it to the
top. She cried the day she learned he would not.
Arlene Blum is a little angry. Once Mrs. Roach backed out, it was
Ms. Blum alone who had the chance of becoming the first American woman
on the summit of Everest.
A 31-year-old chemistry professor who prefers the feminist
designation, Ms. Blum feels she was practically ignored when it came
time for summit team decisions. Her only hope was that she be
considered for a third team.
When it was obvious that there would not even be a second team, Ms.
Blum lobbied for the opportunity to at least get to the South Col.
''It's such a historic place. I know I could have made it that
far,'' said Ms. Blum, who did not get higher than Camp 4 at about
24,500 feet. ''It wouldn't have hurt anyone to let me go to the Col
but no, I was told I couldn't go. I strongly suspect male chauvinism.
Perhaps, an American all-woman team will climb Everest one day.''
Nevertheless, she looks back on the Everest trip as ''something that
I will remember all my life. It was a great experience.''
1303pED 10-16
**********
n461 0653 18 Oct 76
Attention: Feature editors.
By SANDRA PESMEN
(c) 1976 Chicago Daily News (Oct. 18)
Chicago - At last Dr. Pete Hackett is on the way back
to his outpost in the vast mountain wilderness of the Hihalayas,
where once again he'll tend to the peasants, their yaks and his
research project on a disease called mountain sickness.
For about a year, this 28-year-old Chicagoan was the only medical
person available to the people, the yaks and the visiting
mountain-climbing tourists in his area of Nepal.
And that tiny country - about the size of Wisconsin and tucked
between India and Tibet - boasts 11 million people, most of whom
suffer from tuberculosis, dysentery or trichinosis.
The people there don't face as much starvation and ogerpopulation
as people do in India,'' Hackett said. ''But then, that may be
because they have an infant mortality rate of 50 per cent, and life
expectancy is 38.''
He is paid nothing for this work.
This dedicated young doctor, who graudatedfrom the
Unive
sity of Illinois Medical College in 1973, chose an internship
at San Francisco General Hospital so that he could be near
the mountains of Yosemite.
''I fell in love with mountains when I was 10 and my grandparents
took me on a trip to Colorado,'' Hackett said. ''there is pure joy
in being on top of the world. There are very few people who ever
come close to that.'' Hackett got to Nepal in a very roundazout
way. After his intership, he had mixed feelings about moving
into a medical practice.
''I'm the oldest of 10 boys, and our father is a general practitioner,''
he explained. ''But I felt as though I'd had it with medical school
then, so I went up to Yosemite and worked with a helicopter rescue
-mission crew. While I was doing that, I met some people who ran a company
called Mountain Travel. They organized mountain-climbing tours
in the Himalayas, and since they needed a doctor to send on their
tours, they offered to take me along with all expenses paid.
I couldn't wait to go.''
The original plan was for Hackett to go on a 25-day tour of the
Himalayas. ''I liked it so much I stayed seven months.
I hooked up with other later Mountain Travel tours and hiked about
15,000 miles,'' he eaid.
It was during this time that Hackett was asked to join the
Himalayan Rescue Assn., and soon afterward he established a small
clinic in a yak herder's hut.
''Soon I was treating people in nearby rural villages, and they
brought their yaks to me too, because the animals are so valuable
to them. I often helped the yaks in difficult births,'' he said,
smiling. ''Last year I treated 510 Sherpas, or local people,
and 430 tourists. We estimate that about 3,000 tourists come to
Mt. Everest each year, and about 50 per cent of them seem to get
some form of a high-altitude illness called mountain sickness.''
This disease, distinguished by a heacache that doesn't go away,
nausea, shortness of breath and lack of co-ordination, also is
being seen with greater frequency now in the mountain ranges of the
United States where people ski.
''That's because people ascend to high altitudes too quickly,''
Hackett said. ''If you're going to ski at Vail, you should stop
in Denver for a night, or at least stay in your hotel and rest
for 24 hours before you go out on the slopes.'' He added that the first
emergency treatment for someone who feels the symptoms is to descend
immediately.
Hackett returned to Chicago 10 months ago to pay some medical-school
debts; to raise money for a new, larger clinic in Nepal by
giving slide lectures, and to work with Dr. Drumhon Rennie, of
Rush-Presbyterian-St. Luke's Medical Center, who is a pioneer in the
field of mountain sickness.
But Hackett can't stay away from the Himalayas and longer.
''There' something very special about treating these villagers,''
he continued. ''When they call me in the middle of the night
to tend to a very sick child or a very sick yak, and I go, they
are very grateful. And if the patient dies, they apologize for having
asked me to treat a patient who died.
''When a patient comes in off the road with an obvious heart
attack, I treat him differently than I would in the States,''
Hackett said. ''Here we would place him in a coronary unit, give
him an electrocardiogram and intensive ca
e, and expect him to live
a good long time afterward. But in Nepal I can only give that patient
carotid artery massage, which is rubbing the artery in his neck,
and some medicine to relax his heart and slow the beat...then, when he
has rested a few minutes I send him back out into the road.
''If he can live another few hours, or perhaps another few
days, I have given him some time he wouldn't tave had otterwise.''
Hackett also plans to continue his research on mountain
sickness when he returns to Nepal.
rl (ENDIT PESMEN) 10-18
cd
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n557 0640 19 Oct 76
1 add (Chicago) - patricia Moore (Oct. 19) x x x find solutions.
An Illinois judge said, ''I use any law I can lay my hands on''
to settle such disputes. Donald C. Schiller, a Chicago divorce
attorney, said his advice to complaining parties who want their stereo
or sofa or TV set returned is to try to reclaim it themselves. ''He
or she should go out and try to get back the property as best he or
she can. The cost of litigating is more than the value of used
furniture,'' Schiller said.
The lawyer said that even when larger sums - or even children - are
involved, the quarreling couple will find themselves going from court
to court, rather than to one divorce judge who would rule
on custody, support and division of property. Schiller cited the
case of an unwed father who filed in chancery court to get more
visitation rights and the mother filed a countersuit, asking for
more support money for the child.
The Washington State Supreme Court ruled last year on a woman's
claim to a rancher's estate. They had lived together a number of
years and had children, even though he also had a wife. When the
rancher died, the woman he had lived with contended she was partner
in the ranching and was entitled to half the property. The wife
insisted the other woman was just that and deserved nothing. A
lower court agreed with the widow, but the supreme court sent the
case back, saying that the personal and sexual relationship was
irrelevant. The lower court was ordered to consider only evidence
about a business relationship in determining the woman's claim.
Chicago's small claims court, where persons serve as their own
lawyers, is getting more cases of minor disputes when unwed couples
go their separate ways. Recent cases there included:
- A young man paid a $300 deposit on an apartment because he
and his girl friend planned to move in together and share expenses.
She contended that when they visited the apartment he
was ''crabby'' and complained about all sorts of things, so she
backed out of the arrangement. He wanted $150, her share of the
security deposit. The court ruled that in the absence of a written
agreement with the girl friend, he was stuck for the full amount.
- A couple had split up and he contended she hadn't repaid a
$200 loan. She said it wasn't a loan - he gave her the money
to buy bedroom furniture. She bought the furniture on Halloween,
the woman testified, and they lived together until Valentine's
Day. Judge Emanuel Rissman ruled the man got 3 1/2 months use
of the bedroom furniture and was entitled to nothing.
Even when unwed couples make major purchases, such as a house
held in joint tenancy, there are pitfalls. Burton Terry of the
Legal Aid Bureau pointed out that the title must specify that
it is held in joint tenancy. (if one party dies, the survivor
inherits the other's share.) Otherwise, the dead partner's blood
relatives inherit his or her share.
Ms. Hirsch has written a book, ''Living Together, a Guide to the
Law for Unmarried Couples,'' that covers topics such as joint
tenancy. She points out the reluctance of life insurance
companies to allow live-in friends to be named beneficiaries and
a similar attitude in pension plans.
While preparing her book, Ms Hirsch discovered that a constant
source of embarrassment to unwed couples is checking in to hotels
and resorts. They may be turned away if they register in their own
names, they dislike the fraud of Mr. and Mrs. and they don't
want the expense of two single rooms. Ms. Hirsch found that the
couples she interviewed usually take a single room and the woman
''sneaks in,'' which is degrading and deprives the hotel of its
due, a double-occupancy rate. (None seemed to have tought
of the direct approach, that is, telling the room clerk they
always use their ''own names'' without going into whether they
are married.)
No matter how married a couple behaves - take the case of an
unmarried couple where the woman stays home and he supports her
- he can't use the single-head-of-household tax table and claim
her as a dependent. Ms. Hirsch contended that a 1954 revision of
IRS laws clearly cover ''consorts'' in such instances, but the
courts consistently refuse to allow it, ruling that Congress
couldn't have intended to give a tax break to illicit relations.
And some might ask why, indeed, should legislators and courts
put their stamp of approval on illicit, immoral affairs? Because,
to borrow a phrase, like Mt. Everest, it's there.
As long as couples decide to live in a marriage-like state, they
are going to want answers to problems. James Lestikow of the Illinois
Institute of Continuing Legal Education said, ''These situations
will become more common. We should develop guidelines, especially
regarding property. Legislators should be the first to handle
the problem.''
In the meantime, Ms. Hirsch advised couples to ''keep their
wits about them'' and write legally binding contracts.
rl (ENDIT MOORE) 10-19
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n999 1816 22 Oct 76
...
a098
r a czcqyvryr
BC-PEOPLE IN THE NEWS 2takes 650
c.1976 N.Y. Times News Service
UNDATED - Doctors in Calcutta said Palden Thondup Namgyal,
former ruler of Sikkim, was still in critical condition but
regaining consciousness four days after an overdose of barbiturates.
A family member said that he had regained some of his reflexes
and was beginning to react to light.
Dr. William T. Foley of New York, a internist who had previously
treated the former royal family in Sikkim, arrived in Calcutta
Friday. He was accompanied by the former king's son and daughter
by his American second wife, who was Hope Cooke before her
1963 marriage. She returned here with the children in 1973.
Whether she would go to visit her husband was said to hinge
on passport complications.
Irrepressible Hubert H. Humphrey is up to his old tricks.
He is making daily rounds at Memorial Sloane-Kettering in
New York City. Less than two weeks after his surgery for
removal of his cancerous bladder, the senator knows all his
fellow patients on the floor by name, and drops in on them
regularly as he takes his daily exercise. Patients have alerted
their families, who now arrange their hospital visits to
coincide with the senator's schedule, and patients from other
floors line the mall to greet him, as he makes his way upon
his appointed rounds, clad in his 20-year-old, blue and white
bathrobe.
After 25 years with the State Department, Joseph J. Sisco
was inaugurated as president of Washington's American University.
Sitting in the front row was Secretary of State Henry A.
Kissinger, for whom Sisco most recently was chief political
and Middle East adviser. Calling his government career ''a
privilege,'' the Chicago-born Sisco said, ''I know, as the
son of parents who did not get beyond grade school, that
education (made) it possible.''
For Constance Davis, beating Saul Bellow in a Northwestern
University short-story contest 40 years ago is ''humbling''
in retrospect. The Nobel Prize-winner for literature placed
only third in the 1936 competition, sponsored by The Daily
Northwestern. Mrs. Davis, who lives in Ohio, said she had
done little creative writing since, because she ''couldn't
stand to sit down to a typewriter'' after a day's work at
The Elyria Chronical Telegram, where she is now women's news
editor.
Mary Zimmer of Dearborn, Mich., who placed second in the
college contest, said she had ''made a living writing,''
mostly in advertising, but that her creative career ''never
went very far.'' Neither of the women remembers being impressed
with Bellow at the time, they said Friday.
''At 18,000 feet, you're roughly half as smart as you are
at sea level,'' reported Dr. Dee Crouch, a doctor with the
American Bicentennial Expedition to Mt. Everest, in Hong
Kong Friday. Dr. Crouch, who was on his way home to Boulder,
Colo., said he was studying the effect of high altitude on
the human brain. He said he had no proof that it can cause
permanent brain damage but, he acknowledged, ''The lore is
that you don't come back from the mountain as smart as when
you go up.''
(MORE)
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a235 1208 23 Oct 76
AM-Everest Climbers, 470
By BINAYA GURUACHARYA
Associated Press Writer
KATMANDU, Nepal (AP) - The newest conquerers of Mt. Everest met the
first man to climb the world's highest mountain Saturday, and the
talk was more about schools and hospitals and losing weight than about
lofty peaks.
After his meeting here with Sir Edmund Hillary of New Zealand, Bob
Cormack, 30, of Boulder, Colo., said, ''We did not particularly talk
about the American Bicentennial Everest Expedition, and he did not
inquire about our climb.''
Dr. Chris Chandler, 28, of Seattle, Wash., and Cormack became the
54th and 55th persons to scale the 29,028-foot peak on Oct. 8 as part
of the 12-member American expedition. They followed the route over
the southeast ridge pioneered by Hillary and Sherpa guide Tenzing
Norgay in 1953.
''When I said I lost 30 pounds on the mountain,'' Chandler recalled,
''Hillary told me that he had also lost 30 pounds.''
''In fact,'' Chandler said, ''we did not discuss mountaineering so
much. He is interested in many things besides climbing. He mostly
talked about his schools and the hospital he built in the
Sherpaland.''
Cormack described Hillary as ''a nice guy.'' Chandler added, ''He is
very big and he was very reserved at first. However, he likes to talk
after a while.''
Asked to compare their achievement with that of Hillary, Chandler
said, ''There is a big difference. The climb was completely unknown
when he did it. And we did not do a new road or anything.''
The tall, hefty Hillary spends several months each year in Nepal. He
plans to visit the two hospitals and some of the 17 schools he helped
establish for the Sherpas.
He is also involved in making adventure films and last year his
autobiography ''Nothing Venture, Nothing Win'' was published.
In an interview before his meeting with the American climbers,
Hillary said the races between different nations to climb Everest had
reached a ''ridiculous stage.''
''Why beat our brains out (for Everest) when there are so many other
beautiful mountains to climb?'' he asked.
He also regretted that Everest expeditions had become so
''colossal.''
''The more people there are involved in the group - climbers,
Sherpas, camera crews - then the relationship between the individual
and the mountain is changed.''
He noted that the Sherpas often end up doing all the work.
Members of the American Bicentennial Expedition have complained that
they were doing too little load carrying and climbing. Hans Bruyntjes
of Holland, the only non-American member of the expedition, figured
that of the 45 days on the mountain, only five were spent climbing.
''What's the point of going up the mountain if you're going to stay
in your sleeping bag?'' Hillary asked. ''In those days (1953), every
member was giving all he had every day.''
1510pED 10-23
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a075 0558 25 Oct 76
PM-Four Killed, 200
NEW DELHI, Inndi (AP) - Three mountain climbers from California and
one from Mexico were killed nine days ago while trying to climb Mt.
Dunagiri in the Himalayas, the Indian Mountaineering Foundation said
today.
A spokesman for the foundation said the dead men were Graham N.
Stephenson of Los Angeles, John J. Baruch of Pacific Palisades9indian-Tibetan b-
order.
The spokesman said they were killed Oct. 16 but that no further
details were available.
The expedition left New Delhi on Sept. 22, according to the
foundation.
Dunagiri is located in the Indian Himalayas near Mt. Nanda Devi,
site of another American mountaineering tragedy last month. Nanda Devi
Unsoeld, 22, of Olympia, Wash., who had been named for the peak, died
Sept. 8 on the mountain while she was climbing with her father, Mt.
Everest conquerer Willi Unsoeld. The young woman succumbed after
climbing to 24,000 feet on the 25,645-foot peak.
0901aED 10-25
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n033 1050 02 Nov 76
PM-POLES 600
By MICHAEL J. SATCHELL
c. 1976 Washington Star
WASHINGTON - By the dawn's early light, and with the help
of a small electric motor and a device called a photosensitive
cell, the Stars and Stripes is hoisted up 117 flagpoles across
the United States each morning without benefit of protocol,
ceremony or human hands.
And at the twilight's last gleaming, down they come. Automatically.
For the last five years, the General Services Administration
has been quietly installing electronic flagpoles on federal
office buildings, post offices and courthouses, at a considerably
higher cost than the traditional hand-hoisted flagpole.
No one took much notice of the new devices until the GSA
installed a 70-foot electronic pole in front of a new federal
office building in Syraucse, N.Y., recently.
Rep. William F. Walsh, the local Republican congressman
and something of a traditionalist about such things as raising
the flag with proper ceremony and respect, knows a good campaign
issue when he spots one.
He made a few inquiries, learned that the automatic flagpole
in his district cost $10,429 compared to $4,000 for a traditional
pole of similar size, and reacted with predictable outrage.
''The entire situation is absurd,'' he said. ''Is our federal
bureaucracy now so fragile - or so lazy - that it can't handle
the strenuous job of raising and lowering the flag at federal
installations?
''Properly done, with all the respect called for under national
customs, traditions and federal laws, flag raising and lowering
shouldn't take more than a few minutes a day.''
The GSA says the Syracuse flagpole was unusually expensive
because of high installations costs. William Campbell, a
GSA assistant commissioner, said the 117 automatic poles
cost on average about $4,000 apiece. However, he said he
didn't know how much GSA had spent on 117 electronic flagpoles
installed to date. Speculation in various publications on
the total cost of the poles runs as high as a million dollars,
but Campbell denied they cost that much.
Why install automatic flagpoles?
''We put them in where it is unsafe to raise and lower the
flag,'' Campbell said.
Like Mt. Everest?
''Well, on top of buildings where the flagpole is close
to a parapet or something. We also make an economic evaluation.
We weigh the cost of having someone come in on overtime to
raise and lower the flag on holidays or weekends,'' Campbell
added.
Couldn't the janitor do it? Or the guard?
''Not all of our buildings have building service personnel
or Protective Service officers on weekends,'' Campbell replied.
The flagpoles, purchased from a company in Maywood, Ill.,
are activated by light and darkness and are supposed to be
able to operate in bad weather. The GSA insists that dark
clouds in the middle of the day won't fool the photosensitive
cell into lowering the flag at noon during a thunderstorm.
However, Walsh recently received a letter from a citizen
in Eliot, Maine, named silas Weeks, who had observed the
electronic flagpole in operation at the U.S. Forest Service
building in Laconia, N.H.
''Congratulations on going after the GSA and their stupid
electronic flagpoles,'' Weeks wrote. ''It's an absolute outrage
that the janitor or the nearest citizen can't manage to run
the flag up and down a good old fashioned wooden pole with
a pulley on top.
''The (Laconia flagpole) ran the flag down every time the
sun went behind a cloud and they couldn't set it at half
mast.''
Walsh has asked the House subcommittee on public buildings
and grounds to investigate.
(NOT FOR USE IN BOSTON HERALD, QUINCY, DETROIT AND SAN FRANCISCO)
1102 1350pes
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